George:

I did the very same thing. I had no luck with Kroil and went back to liquid wrench, which is glorified kerosene. Do heat the bleeder screw with a propane torch and grab it with a pair of vice grips if it is rounded off. While it is hot, it will pop loose. Worst case, you break it off and use a slightly smaller drill to remove the remains and run a tap through it to clean out what remains in the threads for a new bleeder. Put antisieze compound on the new bleeder! TEMiller

George Goff wrote:

>In a message dated 10/6/04 9:41:55 PM, biobsd@VERIZON.NET writes: > ><< Try kroil. >> > >After receiving a flyer in the mail almost weekly for years from the Good Ol' >Boys at Kanolabs, I finally succumbed to their claims (Don't Spoil It, Kroil >It) and bought a gallon of Kroil. I'm not impressed. In fact, I still have >most of it left. Once I tried it many times, I gave up and returned to PB >Blaster. Then, on the sage advice of my buddy at the local Autozone, Tony DeLoni >(you gotta love that name), I tried Rust Eater. To me Rust Eater seems to be >more effective than either PB Blaster or Kroil. A bonus is that it is cheaper >than Blaster and MUCH cheaper than Kroil. > >Regarding the stuck bleeder: If a penetrating oil does not do the trick, >don't be afraid to train the flame directly on the bleeder screw, especially with >a propane torch. The quicker you get it up to heat, the better. Have some >quenching water at the ready. The oxidation layer between the screw and the >caliper body will slow the heat transfer into the caliper, but still, don't >linger on the heating cycle. > >George > > > >