Date:         Thu, 7 Oct 2004 20:35:12 -0400
Reply-To:     tmiller <tmiller@VCMAILS.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         tmiller <tmiller@VCMAILS.COM>
Subject:      Re: rusty brake bleed screws
Comments: To: THX0001@AOL.COM
In-Reply-To:  <1ec.2bc6f748.2e9623f4@aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

George:

I did the very same thing.  I had no luck with Kroil and went back to
liquid wrench, which is glorified kerosene.  Do heat the bleeder screw
with a propane torch and grab it with a pair of vice grips if it is
rounded off.  While it is hot, it will pop loose.  Worst case, you break
it off and use a slightly smaller drill to remove the remains and run a
tap through it to clean out what remains in the threads for a new
bleeder.  Put antisieze compound on the new bleeder!
TEMiller

George Goff wrote:

>In a message dated 10/6/04 9:41:55 PM, biobsd@VERIZON.NET writes:
>
><< Try kroil. >>
>
>After receiving a flyer in the mail almost weekly for years from the Good Ol'
>Boys at Kanolabs, I finally succumbed to their claims (Don't Spoil It, Kroil
>It) and bought a gallon of Kroil.  I'm not impressed.  In fact, I still have
>most of it left.  Once I tried it many times, I gave up and returned to PB
>Blaster.  Then, on the sage advice of my buddy at the local Autozone, Tony DeLoni
>(you gotta love that name), I tried Rust Eater.  To me Rust Eater seems to be
>more effective than either PB Blaster or Kroil.  A bonus is that it is cheaper
>than Blaster and MUCH cheaper than Kroil.
>
>Regarding the stuck bleeder: If a penetrating oil does not do the trick,
>don't be afraid to train the flame directly on the bleeder screw, especially with
>a propane torch.  The quicker you get it up to heat, the better.  Have some
>quenching water at the ready.  The oxidation layer between the screw and the
>caliper body will slow the heat transfer into the caliper, but still, don't
>linger on the heating cycle.
>
>George
>
>
>
>