Vanagon EuroVan
Previous messageNext messagePrevious in topicNext in topicPrevious by same authorNext by same authorPrevious page (October 2004, week 3)Back to main VANAGON pageJoin or leave VANAGON (or change settings)ReplyPost a new messageSearchProportional fontNon-proportional font
Date:         Tue, 19 Oct 2004 11:21:58 -0400
Reply-To:     vw4x4@FYI.NET
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Eric Zeno <vw4x4@FYI.NET>
Subject:      Re: '88 engine knock diagnosis
Comments: To: Eric <ericmail@STARPOWER.NET>
In-Reply-To:  <6.0.1.1.2.20041019102911.02d6a9f0@pop.starpower.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

LIfter tap.... Change the oil, with 20w-50. That for long drive. Eric

Eric wrote:

> Greetings. > I'm a new owner of a 1988 Westy that was picked up cheap because of a > loud > engine knock. I would appreciate the list's help in a possible diagnosis > before I pay to have it towed since its destination depends on the > malady. > (If the engine is toast I'm diving right into a Subaru transplant. If > there > is hope for a few more miles it goes to the local VW shop.) > > The symptom: > It is a LOUD knock or rap that sounds like a hammer hitting the block. It > is quite loud, maybe louder than a bad rod bearing but less of a deep > "thonk" and more of a sharp rap. Seems to be louder from beneath the > engine. If my calculations are correct, its frequency is about 1/2 the > crank speed at 5-6 times a second at normal idle (valve/cam related?). > > What I've investigated: > Don't really know the history of this engine. Odometer has 142,000 > miles on > it. Looks like heads have been replaced sometime. Oil level ok but don't > know when the last change was. Small oil seep (main crank seals?). Small > coolant leak from hose connection, nothing serious. Cold compression > seems > ok (first stroke 90-100 tops at 140-150 for all 4). Starts and idles fine > with slight roughness. The oil pressure light goes out shortly after > start > and stays out at idle, though the engine hasn't had the chance to > completely warm up during my investigations so don't know about hot oil > pressure. I've been afraid to rev it above 1500rpm or run it for long > if it > is a rod ready to liberate itself. > > I've grounded the plug wires for each cylinder individually with it > idling > and there is no change in the knocking. I've popped off the valve covers > and cranked it. All the valves seem to move more or less. I've cranked it > with all plugs out and there is no obvious knock. > > Early diagnosis: > I'm much more familiar with OHC in-line 4 engines. This WBX throws > some new > geometries into the mental picture not to mention the complexities of the > hydraulic lifter push-rod valve train. My first intuition was a rod > bearing > due to the loudness, but it didn't seem to change as expected when the > plug > wires were grounded and its frequency seems half of what it should be. > Suggestions please? > > I am grateful for your insights, > Eric > >


Back to: Top of message | Previous page | Main VANAGON page

Please note - During the past 17 years of operation, several gigabytes of Vanagon mail messages have been archived. Searching the entire collection will take up to five minutes to complete. Please be patient!


Return to the archives @ gerry.vanagon.com


The vanagon mailing list archives are copyright (c) 1994-2011, and may not be reproduced without the express written permission of the list administrators. Posting messages to this mailing list grants a license to the mailing list administrators to reproduce the message in a compilation, either printed or electronic. All compilations will be not-for-profit, with any excess proceeds going to the Vanagon mailing list.

Any profits from list compilations go exclusively towards the management and operation of the Vanagon mailing list and vanagon mailing list web site.