Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2004 15:03:51 -0700
Reply-To: Doug in Calif <vanagon@ASTOUND.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Doug in Calif <vanagon@ASTOUND.NET>
Subject: Re: Installing a pop-top on a non-pop top EASY ??? IN ONE
WEEDEND ??
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Hi Mark,
I hear ya on the keep it simple go for "best function" as a modification
process.
I am sure there are much easier ways to do this conversion and end up with a
good result that offers a full functioning top than the way I did it.
This was my first conversion and my first and only 87 syncro I had sitting
around, so I was a bit concerned about cutting large holes in the roof.
I learned a ton about how to do this on my first go-around, and now I know
exactly where to cut, what works and what did not for me. This would save me
lots of time on the next one.
One of the things that slowed me down was I wanted to use the donor roof
metal because it had all the hole layouts for stuff like the rear
hinges,front riser bars mounts, upper bunk plywood, parcel trays, the canvas
securing trim, etc. All of which was on layout when I went to install that
stuff. The location of that stuff may indeed not be that critical as long as
everything works but I did not know what was going to work and what was
going to give me a problem. I always erred on the side of hopefully the
project still turning out well rather than scrapping the van or trying to
sell something that was now "hacked".
I think all would benefit from a simple easy method of doing this
conversion, provided the end result looked good and was presentable it would
save lots of time and labor and perhaps give those pop tops in the wrecking
yards a chance to see some campgrounds again.
When you have time let me know how you addressed the three areas I ran into
with a simpler method. Bed rail, rear hinge, and center support.
cheers,
Doug
----- Original Message -----
From: "mark drillock" <drillock@EARTHLINK.NET>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Thursday, October 21, 2004 2:09 PM
Subject: Re: Installing a pop-top on a non-pop top EASY ??? IN ONE WEEDEND
??
> Doug, I have done a few of these now. I put the first one in my 87
> Syncro 10 years ago. Your concerns about the rear hinges are over blown.
> My wife and I have camped hundreds of nights with the top up, dozens of
> those in howling Baja winds. No problems or bending of the roof.
>
> It is possible to add the full upper bed with cushions without using any
> of the roof metal from a donor and without turning it into a more than a
> few day project. I did so on a friend's Syncro 6 years ago. No problems
> with hinges on his either. I don't have time to cover the details right
> now but it just is not that hard. Yes, some tools and a little know-how
> are needed. A strong helper will come in handy too.
>
> To get a functional and good looking result is not difficult. If you are
> trying to make something you can later sell as a true Westy then more
> work will be needed. I do it for best function, not to pass it off later.
>
> Mark
>
> MarkDoug in Calif wrote:
>
> >Having done this job to my 87 syncro GL (non-westy) as part of my westy
> >conversion, I can tell everyone, that to do it RIGHT its a BIG job
indeed.
> >You better be handy with metal and have a good assortment of tools, lots
of
> >know-how and lots of time, and I mean weeks.
> >
> >...............
> >There are 3 main areas that become issues on this conversion.
> >
> >The rear pop top support hinges on the westy bolt to a "flat" area molded
> >into the roof skin. The non-westy van has a curved roofline where the
hinges
> >are going to go.
> >There is also a structural support under the roof skin in this area on
the
> >westy, to transfer the load on the hinges down to the structurally sound
> >roof frame rails.
> >(very strong 1/8 th inch thick steel support rail that runs around the
> >perimeter of the vanagon at the level of the rain gutter)
> >The HACKED method of just screwing down the rear support hinges through
the
> >curved roof metal to whatever you can grab or an inserted plate under the
> >skin is SLAMMIN IMHO.
> >There is a fair amount of weight resting on the rear hinges if all you
have
> >to support that weight under the rear hinge is the roof skin itself you
are
> >asking for trouble. Any movement of the top, raising and lowering, wind /
> >snow loads, racks, canoes, etc will eventually flex the thin sheet metal
of
> >the roof skin and fatigue the metal there. You will also still have the
> >issue of trying to bolt down the hinge which has a flat bottom to a
curved
> >roofline. This will kick your hinges out at an angle rather attaching
> >vertically.
> >
> >Another issue is the "bed rail" this is a very thin piece of metal that
> >forms a "ledge" that supports the rear plywood bed and front fold out
> >section for the upper bunk. This "ledge" is only on the westy. It is very
> >securely welded in almost a hundred places to the main roof support rail.
> >You either need to custom fab your own bed rail or remove the rail
> >carefully from the donor van and attach to the other van. (big job)..
> >
> >
> ......
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