Date: Fri, 5 Nov 2004 18:25:35 -0600
Reply-To: Jim Felder <felder@KNOLOGY.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Jim Felder <felder@KNOLOGY.NET>
Subject: Re: Replacing rear brake cylinder, info and / or help needed
In-Reply-To: <418C1651.2090507@verizon.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed
The drum will come off if you hit it with a sledge hammer. Be sure to
take out the retaining screws before you do that, though.
The cylinder swap is the easiest part. I think a 10mm nut through the
plate is all that holds them in.
The cylinders are so cheap that you probably shouldn't risk a rebuild
for the difference in price.
Getting the new shoes and springs in is the hard part. Spring pliers
would be nice, I don't have any but renting them from your FLAPS might
be worth looking into. And getting those #$%#@$^#% little retainer
spring discs and their pins aligned and back in IS the most difficult
part. There is a tool for that, too, though a couple pair of longnose
will work.
Make sure you get apart the adjusting screw and make sure it works
easily, also note which way it turns to expand because you have to
lever a toothed wheel with a screwdriver through a hole behind the
plate to adjustment. Not too bad, but just make sure you've done the
mental monitoring to save yourself some trouble.
Replace all the fluid you can till it runs clear, so buy a big bottle
of brake fluid.
Make sure you place the removed shoes on the driveway as a clue as to
how the new ones go in if you're replacing them. No bit deal, will save
you a few minutes of trial and error.
I never saw a VW bus or vanagon that if the shoes were gone the drums
were'nt worn out as well. this may not be your problem at all, but
you'll save yourself a lot of trouble doing all this just once.
The bentley has the whole story.
Jim
On Nov 5, 2004, at 6:09 PM, Sam Walters wrote:
> Went out to the van mid-day and had virtually no brakes. Discovered
> from the puddle on the ground and further inspection up under the van
> that I have a bad right rear cylinder. Haven't tackled the project
> yet,
> but have searched the archives on the subject. Found lots of good
> ideas
> and tips, although the emphasis is on the shoes and bleeding procedures
> after you are done. Mostly people just say that they removed and
> replaced the wheel cylinder - guess it is easy.
>
> Has anyone put together a web page with instructions on this repair?
> If
> so, I would love to get the link. I have looked at all the ones I have
> bookmarked and found nothing on this specific repair, although there
> are
> a few dead links in there.
>
> It sounds like one of the largest variables is how much trouble one has
> in getting the drum off, and then there is the question of how much
> rust
> is up in there. I know you can do the job without removing that big
> wheel nut.
>
> I am not so sure that I will try this myself as I separated my left
> shoulder about 5 weeks ago in a bicycle / auto encounter and have
> limited strength / use of the left arm still. (I am left handed and it
> was a grade III separation of the AC joint.)
>
> I've got lots of parts I'll trade for help if anyone with experience
> near Baltimore wants to pitch in and help. I have never done any brake
> work myself and would rather learn about it than pay a shop.
>
> But, this might have to be one for a shop.
>
> A bit clearer image of what I would be up against would help so I was
> hoping that someone had some pictures of this job on a web page. So,
> if
> you know of a link, please send it to me.
>
> Can I get a decent wheel cylinder from a FLAPS or should I get it from
> one of our list vendors?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Sam
>
> --
> Sam Walters
> Baltimore, MD
>
> 89 Syncro GL
> 85 Westy Weekender
> 84 Vanagon, original owner, soon to be retired, just too many problems
>
> All incoming and outgoing email scanned by
> automatically updated copy of Norton AntiVirus.
>
