Vanagon EuroVan
Previous (more recent) messageNext (less recent) messagePrevious (more recent) in topicNext (less recent) in topicPrevious (more recent) by same authorNext (less recent) by same authorPrevious page (November 2004, week 2)Back to main VANAGON pageJoin or leave VANAGON (or change settings)ReplyPost a new messageSearchProportional fontNon-proportional font
Date:   Wed, 10 Nov 2004 14:23:43 EST
Reply-To:   FrankGRUN@AOL.COM
Sender:   Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:   Frank Grunthaner <FrankGRUN@AOL.COM>
Subject:   On the issue of Speedometer Cluster Repair
Content-Type:   text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"

I've seen several posts about the reoccurring theme of repairing cracked and fully broken Vanagon speedometer clusters. Of course there is much on this topic in the archives, but I thought I'd call attention to methods I've used for years to address this problem. Many forms of epoxy (including 5-minute, 30-minute, epoxy strips, gas tank repair epoxy and JB Weld to cite a few) have been used with varying degrees of success. Success being defined as delamination within 30 days of reassembly. Very often it is just the screw retention areas that need to be rebuilt.

The cited approach of using clear strapping tape to retain the epoxy and act as a mold is very sound, in that the residual internal surface adhesive will act as a release agent for the cured epoxy.

On the issue of screw hole repair, long ago I used JB Weld (various curing times and viscosity's) for this purpose. I imbedded the required screws in the remaining screw threads after first coating the screw body with WD40, then built up the required support area with the epoxy. I always buff the outside of the remaining vanagon plastic bezel with 1000 grit wet/dry cloth to promote adhesion. I always run the epoxy repair over the outside edge to increase strength. After curing, the screws readily turn out for release and draw down tightly for reassembly.

On the tie down flange of the cluster to the dash metal, I used to incur broken bits that were very annoying. My solution was to cut two thin aluminum (about 1/16 inch sheet) strips to reinforce the plastic tabbed flange. The top one was slotted to slide over the reinforcing ribs and opened for the screw slots as was the lower piece. After a thin coating with JB Weld (again), I clamped the pieces together for curing. A quick touchup with the dremel tool gets rid of interfering epoxy and clears the mount holes. The net effect is to raise the cluster by about 0.040 inches (1 mm). Acceptable for this level of technology in my view.

BTW, I rarely see this cracking phenomena on any other VW clusters in the P&P yard.

Frank Grunthaner


Back to: Top of message | Previous page | Main VANAGON page

Please note - During the past 17 years of operation, several gigabytes of Vanagon mail messages have been archived. Searching the entire collection will take up to five minutes to complete. Please be patient!


Return to the archives @ gerry.vanagon.com


The vanagon mailing list archives are copyright (c) 1994-2011, and may not be reproduced without the express written permission of the list administrators. Posting messages to this mailing list grants a license to the mailing list administrators to reproduce the message in a compilation, either printed or electronic. All compilations will be not-for-profit, with any excess proceeds going to the Vanagon mailing list.

Any profits from list compilations go exclusively towards the management and operation of the Vanagon mailing list and vanagon mailing list web site.