Vanagon EuroVan
Previous messageNext messagePrevious in topicNext in topicPrevious by same authorNext by same authorPrevious page (November 2004, week 2)Back to main VANAGON pageJoin or leave VANAGON (or change settings)ReplyPost a new messageSearchProportional fontNon-proportional font
Date:         Sat, 13 Nov 2004 04:44:48 -0500
Reply-To:     "Daniel L. Katz" <katzd54@YAHOO.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         "Daniel L. Katz" <katzd54@YAHOO.COM>
Subject:      Re: Weird Tiico starting problem -- please Help!

list:

i should add that the voltage drop across the "gap" refered to below was with a big load, attempting to crank. of course, a hypothetical 200 amp cranking current across a 0.03 ohm contact resistance would have resulted in a 6 volt potential drop, but that V-8 could never have cranked with less than 6 volts remaining across the starter, and so it didn't. anyway, i bring this up because even with a contact resistance, or insufficint wire gauge, there is no voltage drop unless current is flowing. it doesn't matter, there could be a 100 ohm contact resistance and tiny 22 gauge wire leading from the battery to solenoid and B+ terminals on starter, and full battery voltage relative to ground will be measured all along the circuit - even with an inexpensive (i.e., low input impedence) voltmeter - until someone turns the key and attempts to start - at which point the voltage at the starter/solenoid would essentially drop to zero.

dan

On Tue, 9 Nov 2004 04:21:41 -0500, Daniel L. Katz <katzd54@YAHOO.COM> wrote:

>oliver: > >chances are starter is bad. a good test is to check voltage across the >battery terminals themselves before cranking, and then while cranking. >voltage should drop somehat, maybe from 12.3 V down to 11.3 V or so when >cranking. now try this with engine hot, when there is no cranking; if no >voltage drop, then no continuity to motor windings - probably internally - >but perhaps due to a bad solenoid. solenoid should at least make clicking >sounds. > >if there is a big voltage drop when cranking (or attempting top crank), >say from 12.3 V down to 9 or 10 V, then battery is probably bad due to too >large an internal resistance. > >if a jump helps, then bad or marginal battery more likely the culprit. > >i am assuming all obvious connections/battery terminals clean and tight, >of course. one time i was talking to a neighbor who was having a devil of >a time with his wife's cadillac not cranking. i was kind of supporting >myself on the positive terminal of the battery when he tried cranking, >and it got warm. sure enough, the terminal had just a little contact >resistance, i guess due to corrosion, maybe .03 ohm or so is all it takes, >and that was the culprit - an easy fix. we actually measured a few volt >drop across the "gap" formed by the positive top post battery terminal and >the connector on the heavy battery cable. > > >dan >


Back to: Top of message | Previous page | Main VANAGON page

Please note - During the past 17 years of operation, several gigabytes of Vanagon mail messages have been archived. Searching the entire collection will take up to five minutes to complete. Please be patient!


Return to the archives @ gerry.vanagon.com


The vanagon mailing list archives are copyright (c) 1994-2011, and may not be reproduced without the express written permission of the list administrators. Posting messages to this mailing list grants a license to the mailing list administrators to reproduce the message in a compilation, either printed or electronic. All compilations will be not-for-profit, with any excess proceeds going to the Vanagon mailing list.

Any profits from list compilations go exclusively towards the management and operation of the Vanagon mailing list and vanagon mailing list web site.