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Date:         Fri, 10 Dec 2004 08:17:48 -0500
Reply-To:     ROBERT DONALDS <donalds1@VERIZON.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         ROBERT DONALDS <donalds1@VERIZON.NET>
Subject:      Re: Simple Question (push rods)second time around
Comments: To: Stan Wilder <wilden1-1@SBCGLOBAL.NET>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
              reply-type=original

The ramp angle at the start of the opening and closing of the bump on the bump stick is what makes a hydraulic camshaft different than a solid lifter camshaft. It make no difference to a solid lifter if the cam is hydraulic BUT the hydraulic lifter does notice the difference and may not properly selfadjust. Because the hydraulic lifter sits on its side in the vans rather than at an angle the hydraulic lifters are prone to not let all the air out and may never self adjust anyway. The other problem the solid lifter engine face is that the after market lifters don't work with the stock OEM cam. The solution when doing a stock 914 or van engine with an STD solid lifter cam is to have the customers cam and lifters reground and I have had no problems with his approach. Its almost impossible to tell if the cam has been reground so the markings on the cam next to the center main don't always identify the type of cam. I use hydraulic grind 2.1 cams profiles on all of my single port Zamboni engines with rave reviews. The exhaust lift is increased and that helps keep the heat out of the heads.

going faster miles an hour with the radio on I remain Bob Donalds

all rights reserved

----- Original Message ----- From: "Stan Wilder" <wilden1-1@SBCGLOBAL.NET> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM> Sent: Thursday, December 09, 2004 11:05 PM Subject: Re: Simple Question (push rods)second time around

> There are always argumets about these non kosher combinations. > Some say; Hydraulic cam with solid lifters are OK. > Some say; Solid Lifter Cam with hydraulics OK. > It's really just not a proper combination. > Remember you want thast engine to run for 100,000 miles. > If you can accept 20K or less miles it doesn't matter which way you go. > Build it right and you'll only need to build it once. > > Stan Wilder > Engine Ceramics > 214-352-4931 > www.engineceramics.com > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "phil cain" <bearsvw2000@YAHOO.COM> > To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM> > Sent: Thursday, December 09, 2004 8:15 PM > Subject: Simple Question (push rods)second time around > > >> What problem would there be from using solid lifters >> and push-rods on a hydraulic cam. I built the engine >> thinking I had a set of hydraulic push-rods and >> didn't, so can I just drop in the solid lifters and >> use their push-rods without any severe problems. Phil >> >> >> >> >> >> >> __________________________________ >> Do you Yahoo!? >> The all-new My Yahoo! - What will yours do? >> http://my.yahoo.com >> >> >> -- >> No virus found in this incoming message. >> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. >> Version: 7.0.289 / Virus Database: 265.5.0 - Release Date: 12/9/2004 >> >> > > > -- > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. > Version: 7.0.289 / Virus Database: 265.5.0 - Release Date: 12/9/2004 >


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