Date:         Thu, 16 Dec 2004 02:57:54 EST
Reply-To:     THX0001@AOL.COM
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         George Goff <THX0001@AOL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Any wood worker cabinetmakers?
Comments: To: camper@TACTICAL-BUS.INFO
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"

In a message dated 12/14/04 7:21:30 PM, camper@TACTICAL-BUS.INFO writes:

<< A trick I have seen is to take a router and put some small grooves down the

length of the part to be curved. >>

jimt,

The process of which you speak is called "kerfing".  It has been used for a
couple of millennium to put short radius curves into wood, although it is most
often done with solid wood boards.  Peer into the hole of an acoustical guitar
and you will see that the blocking at the join of the side to the back is
bent by way of kerfing.  The name comes from the void left when a saw cut is made
which is the kerf.  So, kerfing should produce your desired result, but stow
the router.  Kerf your work piece with a circular saw blade.  For a 1/4" thick
piece of plywood a narrow kerf blade would be best to use.  A metal slitting
saw might be ideal if it can be run fast enough to discharge the sawdust
without burning the wood.  There are many sources which will tell you the rules of
thumb of kerf spacing and depth for a desired radius; I'm sorry, but it is
nearly 3 A.M. and I don't have the wherewithal to search out any.  If nothing
else, do a little trial and error on some scrap.  The optimal spacing and depth
will result in the kerfs closing tightly on the backside with no segmented
appearance to the curve on the show side.

George