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Date:         Sat, 18 Dec 2004 12:55:48 -0600
Reply-To:     Al and Sue Brase <albeeee@MCHSI.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Al and Sue Brase <albeeee@MCHSI.COM>
Subject:      Re: Just interesting observation & More Questions
Comments: To: jbrush@AROS.NET
In-Reply-To:  <200412180736.iBI7aMtL084536@ceres.aros.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

John: I'd have to say I agree with some of your points and disagree with others. I agree that a check valve in the filter should make no difference at all. It may be a bigger factor in the WBX. A good quality filter has LOTS more media in it. I often cut the filters apart to look for swarf. German filters sometimes have two to three times as much as a Fram (total junk in others ways, too). Purolators are almost as good and I found an Italian built house brand that was very nice, too, but its name is forever lost in my old brain. A quality filter will flow more and therefore give you more volume and pressure at the lifters. I believe thin oil and wear on the lifter parts are the main culprits. This is something very few here even think about, but 20w-50 is not 50 weight oil once it has been hot a few times. 50 weight oil is 50 weight oil forever. (Maybe not forever, but MUCH longer.) Multi-vis oil starts with thin base stock and adds VI improvers to make it thicker. These break down with use and high temps, leaving only the thin base stock. I use straight weight 40 Shell for 9 months of the year and synthetic in the winter. Synthetic is really a good idea 12 months of the year, but I'm too cheap. The noise you are hearing is slap at all the clearance points: cam-lifter, lifter-pushrod, pushrod-rocker ball, and rocker tip-valve stem. The ball jointed ends of the pushrods probably make the least noise, because they take up a bit more gradually. The total travel is about 4 turns of the valve adjusting screw, so 4x whatever the pitch is: 1.0, 1.25 (?) Somebody here knows! It's 10mm x ? screw. 4-6mm anyway. I agree, new lifters might wipe out the old cam, maybe not. Used lifters would likely wear in better- already closer to the right radius, but are they good plunger- wise? I'd try thicker oil first, also just screw them down tighter. Another 1/2-1 turn. I've seen them run okay at 4 turns! (I don't recommend anymore than 1-1/2, though. Al Brase

Anonymous Digest wrote:

>The issue of the clacking lifters has long intrigued me, as I know about >it, I have had it for a long time, and no oil filter or viscosity of oil >has ever made a difference. I kind of left out the history of the engine, >because I posted without thinking of how my words would be viewed. :-) I >am aware that my lifters are old and tired and are the cause of the noise, >but at least now, it seems I have found a way to lighten the abuse of >starting it after it has sat for a long time, and that can only help >extend its life a bit more. > >Parking the van on the slight incline makes a difference, and although I >am pleased that it does, I have no explanation of why it helps. If I drove >the van up onto your basic set of ramps, it would be more than twice the >incline that my driveway introduces. I know that the oil pan is not very >deep, so I guess a small angle makes a big difference, but I am still >trying to picture why it helps, and am not getting very good reception on >that picture, yet.... > > Frankly, I don't even know yet exactly what the noise is when it starts >up clattering like it does. Its not clattering rocker arms, like in my old >V8s when they needed adjustment, it is a noise from inside, towards the >center of the engine, and it is loud. If I was new to the Van engine, I >would be sure that it was going to self destruct. <g> > >How much difference is there between the length/height of a lifter that is >drained/collapsed, and one that is all pumped up and ready to rock? The >noise is pretty intense for what I perceive to be a very small amount of >slop. > >FWIW, the engine runs just as well when it is noisy as when it quiets >down, and when it is quiet, it runs so smooth it makes me cry to think I >will have to replace it if I want to get back to a fair amount of power. >Its tired, but it runs so very smooth and quiet....... > >I will listen as well to the wisdom of those more in the know than I, but >I don't think that the oil filter can have any effect on this problem, >with or without a check valve, on an air cooled engine, as it is prefectly >vertical, and if there is enough oil in the engine, the filter is full, >and a check valve isn't going to do anything. Given an angled mount, like >on the water cooled engines, I can sort of see it. The filter is below the >sump, so I have no idea how any check valve can keep oil from draining out >of the upper reaches of the engine. Its a mystery to me. > >Once in a while, over the years, when it is really noisy, I will put in >1/2 qt of MMO, and it quiets down after a while. Did the MMO help, or did >it just get quiet as it normally would? I have no idea but I am sure the >MMO can't hurt, and it might have helped, so if someone is clattering >away, try the Mystery Oil and see what happens. > >Also, I have asked this before and it slipped through the cracks, but in >the world of engine rebuilds I grew up in, not any VWs in the bunch, >installing new lifters on a cam with 200K miles is frowned upon and tends >to wipe out the cam after not very long. What is the opinion of those who >know more than I do, about this? > >Thanks for all the feedback and comments, > >John > > >


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