Date:         Sun, 26 Dec 2004 14:00:45 -0800
Reply-To:     Robert Fisher <refisher@MCHSI.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Robert Fisher <refisher@MCHSI.COM>
Subject:      Re: Broken Head Stud
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
              reply-type=response

That's the thing about the waterboxer; you could have a buddy help you carry
it inside and work on it on the kitchen table. I sometimes see garages and
other 'spaces' for rent monthly or weekly for fairly cheap- I dunno where
you are or how such things are done there but you might find something
suitable for less than what you'd pay in outrageous labor charges. You'd
also get the enlightenment, joy, satisfaction and confidence from doing it
yourself.
Really. : )

Cya,
Robert
----- Original Message -----
From: "jbange" <hfinn@INGRATES.NET>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Sunday, December 26, 2004 11:47 AM
Subject: Re: Broken Head Stud


> At 08:52 AM 12/26/2004, you wrote:
>>With broken head studs you might get the old one out if the there is
>>something to grab onto you could even weld a nut to the end and spin it
>>out.
>
> Argh. I think welding is out of the question. I'm stuck working in "covert
> mechanic" mode as I'm but a lowly apartment dweller with no personal
> garage
> space.
>
>>My experiences are across the board from one bad stud to the case from
>>hell
>>and I have had to send cases out to have the remaining nubs burned out
>>with
>>a metal disintegrator. As for replacing all the studs a precaution I would
>>not. What does need to be done is get a good look at the entire length of
>>the each stud for pitting and if any pitting is present then the stud
>>should
>>be removed.
>
> Hmmm...Sounds like I'll have to remove the cylinders/water jacket to get a
> good look. Am I likely to be Asking For Trouble by pulling the head and
> cylinders in a poorly lit underground parking garage with no facilities
> for
> removing the engine? (probably)
>
>>At this point you need to consider the total milage of the engine
>
> Heh. Between the fool PO and the PPO before him, I haven't a single bit of
> repair history. The odometer read 164K when I bought it, but had been
> broken for SIX YEARS according to the VIN report. Oil pressure is strong,
> over 10psi at idle and 25psi at highway speed with 15W-50 synthetic oil.
> Then again, who knows what heat damage it may have, as the jackass PO
> warned me that it "overheats a lot, so you gotta pull over when it boils
> over and let it cool" (radiator was clogged; i replaced first thing). I'm
> guessing that, one way or another, it's probably wise to consider swapping
> in a rebuilt.
>
>>  your
>>comitment to the van and what your intented uses are.  Is it local driving
>>long distance touring or drive it till it stops
>>as Clint Easwood said in dirty Harry
>>are you feeling lucky
>
> Yeah, I suppose I gotta ask myself if I'm willing to replace one stud and
> drive with my eyes bugging out, waiting for the next stud to pop. At the
> very least, I think I'll pull the head and see how pitted both it and the
> studs are. If it's looks bad, i'll just save my lunch money for a while
> and
> have someone put in a rebuilt. That's the worst part, really. If I had a
> garage to work in, I'd have had that engine out and on a bench last night;
> but no, I live in the city, so I gotta pay someone else to do it...
>
> John Bange
> '90 Vanagon "Geldsauger"