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Date:         Sun, 26 Dec 2004 11:52:58 -0500
Reply-To:     ROBERT DONALDS <donalds1@VERIZON.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         ROBERT DONALDS <donalds1@VERIZON.NET>
Subject:      Re: Broken Head Stud
Comments: cc: jimt <camper@TACTICAL-BUS.INFO>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
              reply-type=response

With broken head studs you might get the old one out if the there is something to grab onto you could even weld a nut to the end and spin it out. My experiences are across the board from one bad stud to the case from hell and I have had to send cases out to have the remaining nubs burned out with a metal disintegrator. As for replacing all the studs a precaution I would not. What does need to be done is get a good look at the entire length of the each stud for pitting and if any pitting is present then the stud should be removed. A pitted studs is more likely to brake when you attempt to torque or unscrew it so this can be tricky. I have a collet type stud extractor that works most of the time but most of the time I remove studs from and empty block on an engine stand. I have mint used head studs on hand if you need then the dealer list price will astound you $25 plus each At this point you need to consider the total milage of the engine your comitment to the van and what your intented uses are. Is it local driving long distance touring or drive it till it stops as Clint Easwood said in dirty Harry are you feeling lucky let me know if I can be of help

standing by with the radio on I remain Bob Donalds from the engine exchange deluxe

----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Drillock" <mdrillock@COX.NET> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM> Sent: Sunday, December 26, 2004 9:39 AM Subject: Re: Broken Head Stud

> As a search of the archives would show, it is not that uncommon for a > head stud to snap. That is because with the VW waterboxer all of the > studs are inside the waterjacket, exposed to the coolant or whatever > someone put in there for coolant. Often times the stud that snaps is one > covered up by the valve cover. When one of those goes the coolant leaks > into the valve cover and then turns the engine oil into something like > pudding. I have replaced just a broken stud and had the engine work > fine. Getting the remains out of the block might be a challenge. Since > you need to pull the head, check the other studs too. > > Mark > > jbange wrote: > >> Well, it just wouldn't be Christmas unless I had SOME kind of >> catastrophic >> mechanical failure. Driving along to mom's place, about 3 miles from >> home, >> when I hear a loud POW! Sort of halfway between a backfire and a tire >> blowout. I look in my side mirror and see clouds of white vapor >> spewing out >> the back.........Coolant was coming out of the hole located at the >> top-aft corner of the left/driver's side head-- a hole that should >> have had >> a threaded stud through it and sealed with a cap nut. The head stud >> apparently snapped and shot off like a projectile. Being only 3 miles >> from >> home I decided to have AAA tow us bcak home, get the other car, and deal >> with it later. I haven't pulled the head off yet, so I'm not sure the >> condition of anything I might find. My neighbor has a spare stud and nut >> he's offered to give me, so I'm wondering if just replacing the one >> stud is >> a good idea. ..... >


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