Date: Mon, 27 Dec 2004 01:26:06 -0600
Reply-To: Al and Sue Brase <albeeee@MCHSI.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <firstname.lastname@example.org>
From: Al and Sue Brase <albeeee@MCHSI.COM>
Subject: Re: V-Belt Pully Bolt
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Many years ago, I worked in an automotive machine shop that specialized
in high performance work. Most engines need their rods rebuilt to stay
alive at higher outputs and engine speeds.
We used Sunnen precision honing equipment. One needs to push out the old
bolts; use the cap grinder to take off a slight amount off the cap and
rod at the parting line; reassemble and retorque to spec with new bolts;
then put it on the precision honing mandrel and gradually bring it up to
the minimum ID spec size, while checking the size with the bore gauge.
It's been a long time since I did this, but it seems like it took at
least 1/2 hr per rod back then. Maybe one could get faster if he did a
lot of them.
Perhaps there are other methods as well. The hone left a beautiful
finish, much nicer than new. Perhaps other methods might be faster and
4 rods times 1/2 hr is 2 hr. Two hrs shop time might be anywhere from
$100 to $160. Plus the bolts.(Above and beyond this, you should get them
balanced as a set, that is, the big end weights should match and the
small end weights should match) This might cost another $10 to $20 each.
Or go buy the machine.
Oh, by the way, brand new rods never checked out perfect. Used rods that
were reconditioned and then run for a while were much better than new
rods after the same use. Apparently, after stretching, the metal was
much stronger and held tolerance better.
So I have always had rods reconditioned on any rebuilds that would be
pushed very hard. That means any VW engine in a type 2 or Vanagon.
Jim Felder wrote:
>> You do know you cant reuse the con rods without replacing the
>> bolts and resizing the big end of the rod
> Some of us didn't know. What is involved in resizing the big-end?
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