Date: Sun, 9 Jan 2005 16:29:45 -0700
Reply-To: jimt <camper@TACTICAL-BUS.INFO>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: jimt <camper@TACTICAL-BUS.INFO>
Subject: Re: Stove Repair
In-Reply-To: <ACDCCACB-6272-11D9-98E8-000393ABA3AC@earthlink.net>
Content-type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"
On 1/9/05 12:14 PM, "Joseph Heil" <jose5353@EARTHLINK.NET> wrote:
> thanks to all for your posts to my inquiry about stove repair
> Both websites and info helpful
>
> Am not sure...did prelim clearing of tube but still have differential
> performance on burners
>
> Got my 87 Westy used....am wondering if I simply ended up with one
> burner of each BTU rating
> Definitely sounds different coming through the valve when "on." as if
> orifice is blocked partially or
> simply different size....hmmm
>
> Guess I'll take your advice and go deeper and investigate clearing
> orifice...
>
> Is the stove top secured by two screws/bolts on the side only or is
> there a trick to getting the stovetop off?
>
> Any luck on finding replacement orifice availability???
>
> Thanks again to all...just found this list and posts mostly incredibly
> helpful already on a number of topics...
>
> Joseph
> 87 Westy
> Sebastopol, CA
>
> vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>
> Just finished doing a 100 percent disassembly of my sink/burner unit
> about
> 20 minutes ago.
>
> Going backwards
>
> Flame spreader/mixer unit
>
> Main flow/expansion tubing
>
> Valve/orifice unit
>
> A low flame in this design could be
> Clogged spreader
> Spider webs dust in the tubing
> Contaminant got down the tubing and to the orifice
>
> A drop in the sink and scrubbing out for the spreader unit
> A blast of compressed air from a can down the tubing to clear out
> spiders
> etc.
>
> If it is the orifice/valve you have a tricky job of getting the unit
> out o=
> f
> the van.
>
> Then removing the spreaders looking into it you will see two bent over
> meta=
> l
> pins. Pull these. Then knocking counter clockwise line up the
> knotches in
> the rings. Remove screw in spreader assembly base. Remove base and
> locking
> ring. Remove screw under that unit. Repeat for both burners
> You should then be able to carefully remove the gaskets at the bases.
> Very
> carefully.
>
> Then flip over and unit should then be removeable from the base.
>
> The orifices go through the tube to the spreaders and must be very
> carefull=
> y
> cleaned or you can make it worse and the only way to tell is after you
> have
> it all hooked up again.
>
>
> Right now I am checking to see what orifices are available for these
> units.
> If I cant find the larger ones I will be selling this unit. I want at
> leas=
> t
I removed the screws holding the front brown trim underneath and then two
screws on the ends. Then make sure you can move it, it wont come out yet.
Then I carefully pulled outward on the wood end behind the seat and was able
to lift the stove up. Make sure you get the hoses off underneath first as
well as the hose from the sink and faucet. (possibly two on faucet) and the
wiring to the faucet and the battery/water level indicator panel. Be very
careful moving the end wood piece, it will crack very easily.
••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••
jimt
Planned insanity is best.
Remember that sanity is optional.
http://www.tactical-bus.info (tech info)
http://www.westydriver.com
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