Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2005 17:02:12 -0800
Reply-To: Doug in Calif <vanagon@ASTOUND.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Doug in Calif <vanagon@ASTOUND.NET>
Subject: Re: hole saws/floor cutting
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
I use step drills up to 1 inch they work well.
Beyond that a 1/4 die grider Makita and solid carbide burr bits
They chew threw metal like butter, you could write your name in the metal if
you wanted.
Plasma torch also would work very excellently if you have the grand to buy
one.
Doug
----- Original Message -----
From: "TJ Hemrick" <x53gunner@GMAIL.COM>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Saturday, January 22, 2005 4:35 PM
Subject: hole saws/floor cutting
> This is a highly opinionated response so take it with a grain of
> salt. Being a man, I'll use any excuse to buy a new tool. Now I've
> got several tools from Harbor Freight and they serve me very well and
> at a great cost. BUT, if I'm going to be cutting a hole in my pride
> and joy, I'm going to sell my left #@% to pay for the best hole saw I
> can find. I'll always find a use for it or other blades if I find a
> great one that allows blade changes and if I need to help someone else
> out, I'm prepared. Especially after comments like, "A hole saw will
> work but is tricky to control in that space. Done it. Extra damaged
> knuckles job. That in itselft says to me, "go big" Now that doesn't
> mean spend the most, but good tools usually cost more. Good luck and
> safe drilling as bits tend to grab and stop when going through sheet
> metal. The bigger the bit, the bigger the grab. When that bit grabs,
> it stops right NOW. The drill will turn in your hand so use the
> slowest big drill you can find with an extension hand. Leave plenty
> of cord available as it will wrap around your arms. My buddies dad
> had a bit grab after breaking through sheet metal. The bit stopped,
> the drill didn't, it wrapped the cord around both arms and he couldn't
> let go of the trigger fast enough and broke both wrists right then and
> there. Crazy old guy drove himself to the hospital. Don't ask, I
> didn't.
> This is one case I disagree with, "Use a cheapie hole saw set from
> harbor freight or similar. "
>
> just my.02
> TJ
>
> Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2005 11:19:13 -0700
> From: jimt <camper@TACTICAL-BUS.INFO>
> Subject: Re: cutting hole in van floor
>
> On 1/22/05 11:01 AM, "Gerald Masar" <azsun99@EARTHLINK.NET> wrote:
>
> > I need to cut a 50mm (slightly less than 2") hole in the floor of my '90
=
> Westy
> > to
> > install a gas furnace. It will be in the back corner of the small
compart=
> ment
> > to the
> > left of the fridge. I looked at holesaws yesterday, and besides being
> > expensive to buy
> > one for just this job, I am wondering how well they would work on the
une=
> ven,
> > ribbed
> > surface of the van floor. And the hole will come out 1/8" away from the
m=
> ain
> > side
> > beam.
> > Any hints, tips, suggestions on how to do this?
> > Thanks
> > Jerry
> >=20
> >=20
>
> A hole saw will work but is tricky to control in that space. Done it.
> Extra damaged knuckles job. Coming out the bottom I suspect a propex
> furnace. Use a cheapie hole saw set from harbor freight or similar. A
> couple buck throw away.
>
>
=95=95=95=95=95=95=95=95=95=95=95=95=95=95=95=95=95=95=95=95=95=95=95=95=95=
95=95=95=95=95=95=95=95=95=95=95=95=95=95=95
> jimt
> Planned insanity is best.
> Remember that sanity is optional.
> http://www.tactical-bus.info (tech info)
> http://www.westydriver.com
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