Date:         Wed, 2 Feb 2005 12:50:58 -0800
Reply-To:     Damon Campbell <damoncampbellvw@YAHOO.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
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From:         Damon Campbell <damoncampbellvw@YAHOO.COM>
Subject:      Re: More powerful waterboxer
In-Reply-To:  <d81c421905020210272837dbc6@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

I'll just throw out there that i think his 130hp
estimation is pretty high.

When i had my 2325 built with a 10.5:1 CR, big valve
heads, S&S headers, etc. etc... it was about 120-ish
hp at the rear wheels.  This was tested with a G-tech
pro road dyno.  I don't think blueprinting an oil pump
will get you that much power.

I'm not saying his suggestions are bad - polishing the
inside of an engine with a lint-free organic alpaca
wool diaper should only do good things, but my
experience makes me a bit skeptical of his claims.  I
would take it as more of a "here are some good ideas
when building your engine" tips that will aid in
longevity, smoothness, and maybe a *little* bit of
power.

IMO, building a substantially higher power WBX comes
from two main methods:
1) Displacement.  I've done this, and it is a pain in
the rear due to severely limited suitable aftermarket
parts.  I don't think i would go this route again.  It
certainly can be done, though, and more power = more
"creativity".
2) Forced induction.  There are a few people out there
doing this, but i wouldn't add a lot of boost to a
stock 2.1 (1.9... *maybe*).  Improve a few things, and
you can get what some euros are doing with high 200hp
wbx engines.

Anyway, that is what my limited experience (and
research) has shown me...

-Damon

--- John Meeks <vanagon@GMAIL.COM> wrote:

> Try this for a summary of  the Lilley techniques:
>
>
http://www.vanagonauts.com/Recipe-for-Performance110.htm
>

=====
'84 Westy (Sparky) w/2.3L WBX
Vancouver, BC



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