KEN; The t-stats are cheap to replace. You can test the radiater by using a garden hose (while you are replacing the t-stat). The water pump is a little tougher because if that is the problem, it might just be not properly bled. I am not sure of the setup of the newer VW motors. If the thermostat is on the bottom, it might have a big slug of air keeping it from opening and clearing itself. I would first try burping the air out of every single hose, especially the lines going to the thermostat housing and water pump. The same filling and bleeding procedure that works for a WBX might not work for the I-4. Since both heaters and the radiator are cold (I am assuming both heater valves are open), my money is on an air pocket either by the water pump and/or the thermostat. John |
Please note - During the past 17 years of operation, several gigabytes of
Vanagon mail messages have been archived. Searching the entire collection
will take up to five minutes to complete. Please be patient!
Return to the archives @ gerry.vanagon.com
The vanagon mailing list archives are copyright (c) 1994-2011, and may not be reproduced without the express written permission of the list administrators. Posting messages to this mailing list grants a license to the mailing list administrators to reproduce the message in a compilation, either printed or electronic. All compilations will be not-for-profit, with any excess proceeds going to the Vanagon mailing list.
Any profits from list compilations go exclusively towards the management and operation of the Vanagon mailing list and vanagon mailing list web site.