Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2005 11:35:12 -0600
Reply-To: roadguy@ROADHAUS.COM
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Larry Chase <roadguy@ROADHAUS.COM>
Subject: Re: Engine Still Overheating - Need Advice / Chapter Three
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Whoa TK time out.
Yah jumpin off half cocked here .... weird since you've never done that before :)
Facts;
As Karl stated the head bolt was observed to be loose .. and I might add, early in
the diagnostic process.
That head bolt was tightened and the other "accessible" bolts checked .. no problem
with the others. So that's like four out of 16 head bolts. Of course the remaining
head bolts require some further disassembly to reach.
After that the very next steps done were a combustion gasses test (dye method) and
a coolant system pressure test (leak down).
The combustion gasses test results were negative ... no gasses present in the
coolant.
The system pressure test leak down, also was negative.
Original Radiator found to have decent flow ... but not as much as we would expect.
So had it pulled and taken apart. Found some amount of blockage and decided to
replace the it with a new Behr unit just for goodness.
So since the "root cause" has not yet been identifed ... it's in a different shop
today ... for a second opinion.
After talking with Karl Mullendore, Seth Hatfield, Mark Drillock and Boston Bob
this weekend ... my feeling is that the cause is most likely the heads.
Although Bob felt there was still a chance that some air was in the system. So i
spent a good part of Saturday and Sunday bleeding and test driving.
unfortunatley ... without success.
The mystery is why there aren't any combustion gasses detectable in the coolant by
the previous test..
Todays shop (second opinion) ....
1) Do a second coolant system pressure test. One tip that Boston Bob passed along
was to check the pressure on a cold engine at start up. If it comes up to approx 14
psi quickly .. it's a sign of combustion gasses in the coolant. So we will look for
that but also do a second leak down test.
2) Do a second combustion gasses test but with different equipment. Todays shop has
an emission type sniffer in addition to the dye test capability. Maybe a different
tool will shed more light on the situation.
Depending on what we learn from these tests .... a possible next step is to
disassemble things enough to check the torque on "All the Head" bolts. Of course
rocker arms and such have to come off.
Finally if none of the above provides a solution ..... I think its time to remove
the heads, starting with the one with the loose head bolt and eye ball things.
That's my story TK, and I'm sticking to it.
larry chase
roadhaus.com
- - -
Message: 9
Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2005 11:53:41 -0600
From: ctonline@webtv.net
Subject: Re: Re: Engine Still Overheating - Need Advice / Chapter Three
Well Now---
Thank you Paul Harvey for the "Rest Of The Story"
Ole Lar, omitted a few verbal overtone's on the whole problem here.
Yea--if the head is loose due to who care's why--there's going to be
some by-blow,---and coolant system problems that any suggestion made by
anybody isn't going to cure.
I wonder why he omitted this small miniscule portion of the whole
deal???
I wonder why he even bothered to replace the radiator prior to repairing
the head??
Or is this a new found problem--like within the last 8 hour's??
What next----???
Hasta,
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