The first rust-converter I tried was called Neutra-Rust, I used it to treat a three-inch rust-bubble on the edge of my super-beetle hood (this was in 1985). Followed it up with primer, surface filler, more primer and FLAPS spray-can touch-up paint (the beetle was re-painted to a mid-70s GM metallic blue, so matching was easy). When I sold the beetle two-and-a-half years later, the repair was still undetectable, no new rusting or bubbling occured. This experience caused me to abandon Naval Jelly forever! Unfortunately, I can't offer any longer term results, shortly after I sold that bug to my buddy Ed, it caught fire... but I don't think the rust converter was to blame. I probably should have sprung for the genuine VW fuel pump... Tim
At 10:44 PM 3/1/2005 -0500, Jonathan Farrugia wrote: >with all this talk about repairing rust and using rust converter i thought >i would look up how rust converters work. its a pretty simple page >because i'm lazy tonight :). > >http://www.corrosion-doctors.org/MetalCoatings/rust-converter.htm > >those of you that spent some time in heavy industry probably used some >tools that had black oxide finish instead of chrome finish. its >"basically" the same end result as some of the rust converters but a >different process. here is some information on the black oxide process. > >http://www.swdinc.com/black_oxide.html > >jonathan |
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