Date: Thu, 3 Mar 2005 14:12:24 -0500
Reply-To: Christopher Gronski <gronski@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Christopher Gronski <gronski@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: replacing oil cooler O-ring
In-Reply-To: <005501c5201f$eee83ec0$56eef004@computer>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Ken certainly knows more about all things mechanical than I do, but
why would you drain you coolant and then have to go through the whole
system bleeding process when you could just clamp off the lines and
top up as I have suggested?
Chris
On Thu, 3 Mar 2005 11:36:34 -0700, Gerald Masar <azsun99@earthlink.net> wrote:
> This has come up before, so you may not have to remove the coolant lines to replace
> the o-ring. Here is a write-up from Ken at Vanagon.com:
> This is not too difficult if you have new coolant hoses to put back in
> place (I would recommend this) when you remove your cooler.
>
> If you are going to replace your oil cooler:
>
> Drain your oil.
> Drain your coolant.
> Remove the oil filter.
> Cut the coolant hoses going to the cooler (two)
> Remove large nut that holds cooler against block.
> Cooler will drop straight down and come off of engine.
> Remove the cut up coolant hoses from the metal lines and the cooler
> itself.
> Replace oring on top of cooler when replacing cooler.
> Put cooler back up in position with new o-ring fitted.
> Reinstall big nut.
> Install new coolant hoses and clamps.
> Put on new oil filter
> Refill oil
> Refill and bleed coolant
> You should be done.
>
> If you are just trying to replace your oil cooler o-ring you can ignore
> the above directions.
> Drain your Oil.
> Get another large nut that will fit on the pipe fitting that the cooler
> sits on and then jam the two nuts together. This should allow you to
> remove the short threaded pipe that allows for the oil cooler. Unscrew
> this threaded pipe section from the block and pull it out. Push down on
> the oil cooler. You should have about an inch gap. Now you should be
> able to remove the o-ring on top of the cooler and replace it. Screw
> the threaded pipe back in and reinstall the large nut. Put on a new oil
> filter and refill the oil. Should only take 30mins.
>
> We have new coolers and o-rings and coolant hoses in stock.
>
> Hope this helps,
> Ken Wilford
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Christopher Gronski" <gronski@GMAIL.COM>
> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
> Sent: Thursday, March 03, 2005 8:10 AM
> Subject: Re: replacing oil cooler O-ring
>
> > I'm not sure about the sealer / lubrication question, but assuming you
> > are talking about the o sing behind a water cooled engine oil cooler I
> > do have a bit of advice.
> >
> > The oil cooler o-ring won"t come offwithout disconecting the oil
> > cooler from your colant lines. Get a couple of pairs of needle nose
> > vice grips and put hose over each of the claws, this way you can clamp
> > off the coolant lines to avoid loosing too much coolant in the
> > operation.
> >
> > Chris
> >
> > On Thu, 3 Mar 2005 07:12:12 -0500, Edward Maglott
> > <emaglott@buncombe.main.nc.us> wrote:
> > > Bentley mentions using some kind of sealer on the mating surfaces, and also
> > > talks about lubricating the O-ring with motor oil. What is the list wisdom
> > > on this?
> > > Edward
> > >
>
>
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