Date:         Wed, 2 Mar 2005 15:59:53 -0500
Reply-To:     Tim Demarest <tim.demarest@POBOX.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Tim Demarest <tim.demarest@POBOX.COM>
Subject:      Re: Rust Converter
Comments: To: Jonathan Farrugia <jfarrugi@UMICH.EDU>
In-Reply-To:  <Pine.SOL.4.58.0503012237150.25079@asteroids.gpcc.itd.umich.edu>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed

The first rust-converter I tried was called Neutra-Rust, I used it to treat
a three-inch rust-bubble on the edge of my super-beetle hood (this was in
1985).

Followed it up with primer, surface filler, more primer and FLAPS spray-can
touch-up paint (the beetle was re-painted to a mid-70s GM metallic blue, so
matching was easy).

When I sold the beetle two-and-a-half years later, the repair was still
undetectable, no new rusting or bubbling occured. This experience caused me
to abandon Naval Jelly forever!

Unfortunately, I can't offer any longer term results, shortly after I sold
that bug to my buddy Ed, it caught fire... but I don't think the rust
converter was to blame. I probably should have sprung for the genuine VW
fuel pump...

Tim



At 10:44 PM 3/1/2005 -0500, Jonathan Farrugia wrote:
>with all this talk about repairing rust and using rust converter i thought
>i would look up how rust converters work.  its a pretty simple page
>because i'm lazy tonight :).
>
>http://www.corrosion-doctors.org/MetalCoatings/rust-converter.htm
>
>those of you that spent some time in heavy industry probably used some
>tools that had black oxide finish instead of chrome finish.  its
>"basically" the same end result as some of the rust converters but a
>different process.  here is some information on the black oxide process.
>
>http://www.swdinc.com/black_oxide.html
>
>jonathan