Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2005 08:20:22 -0600
Reply-To: John Rodgers <inua@CHARTER.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: John Rodgers <inua@CHARTER.NET>
In-Reply-To: <000101c52547$549dca60$6501a8c0@cbetest12>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Well,
An alternative to the big breaker bar and the calculations is to use a
Sweeney Wrench - a geared torquing device that multiplies force. No
levers involved. Has pull chains that hang down in lieu of having to
pull a handle. Sort of like an overhead hoist. A gearbox mounts over the
nut on the shaft. Pulling the chains drives the gearbox. Max capacity on
our shop Sweeney Wrench was like 8,000 ft lbs. Mount, pull the chains,
nut torqued, problem solved.
BTW, our shop Sweeney Wrench was used to torque the nut on the end of
the crankshaft of an aircraft engine to hold the propeller on. As best I
remember (and it was along time ago) torque applied was somewhere around
2500 ft lbs.
Regards,
John Rodgers
88 GL Driver
Jere Hawn wrote:
>Hi John,
>
>
>
>The nut removal tool is kind of a double action breaker bar too. You pull
>it as tight as you can then on the flat part,, you smack the dickens out of
>it until the cotter pin holes line up. (have this tool with you when you go
>to the truck stop so you can tighten it up enough to get home.)
>
>
>
>If you are going by the book 300 lbs of torque.... well in, Master Bentley,
>they have an equation on adding an extension on the drive side, or buy a
>300lb torque wrench.
>
>
>
>Here's a question for everyone. How many of you torque the rear axle nut to
>300lbs and how many tighten it as tight as they can get it/cotter pin holes
>line up?
>
>
>
>Jere
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>
>From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
>Anonymous Digest
>
>Sent: Wednesday, March 09, 2005 10:14 PM
>
>To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>
>Subject: Re: Wheel bearings, and advice
>
>
>
>In <000201c52535$c3339840$6501a8c0@cbetest12>, on 03/09/05
>
> at 09:55 PM, "Jere Hawn" <jghawn@earthlink.net> said:
>
>
>
>
>
>>Hi
>>
>>
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>>Here's my humble opinion:
>>
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>>Buy the VW tool (about $20) 1/2" drive and a 3 lb sledge this will help
>>
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>>you put it back on.
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>>
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>Thanks Jere,
>
>
>
>I appreciate the idea. I am not adverse to even grinding the bolt off, very
>carefully, and maybe only to where it is thin enough to chisel it off,
>although I know it might be catastrophic if I screw it up. The truck shop
>seems a decent option.
>
>
>
>Anyway, how can I put the bolt back on to the proper torque with a sledge
>hammer?
>
>
>
>I have visions of the scenario which you played out, wherein the existing
>nut simply will not come off no matter what is done with a breaker bar and
>the appropriate calistenics (sp) so I am counting the number of
>recommendations to go to a truck shop, and it seems that idea is winning
>out.
>
>
>
>Has anyone had a mechanic say no to this request, based on the liability of
>sending someone off with their nuts loose? (been wanting to use that phrase
>since I started this thread <g>)
>
>
>
>Like I said, I am now officially overthinking this, and need to do something
>and get the rust and the grease flowing. I guess first I will try and get
>it past the inspection and emissions tests and if that goes well, the next
>step is obvious.
>
>
>
>I hate this time of year because of those damn tests. Off in the distance,
>there is a huge trash/tire/whoknowswhat fire been going on for like two
>days. The fire dept is just letting it burn. A few weeks ago, a Butane truck
>overturned and burned for what seems like a day or two. They just stood and
>watched it burn, telling the reporters how it will just dissipate into the
>atmosphere. I show up with my vanagon and have three PPM of HC too much, and
>they get all bent up and make me pay a fortune to have the guys tweak it
>till it drops below their stupid, imaginary number. Then I get a paper
>thanking me for saving the environment. What is wrong with this picture?
>
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>Sorry, I digress.....
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>Anyway, much obliged.
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>John
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