Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2005 14:49:03 -0800
Reply-To: Robert Fisher <refisher@MCHSI.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Robert Fisher <refisher@MCHSI.COM>
Subject: Re: Best way to clean engine?
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Common sense required beyond this point:
I get asked to pressure wash engines/undercarriages all the time but I
rarely ever do it any more due to EPA restrictions and the like. However,
when I do 'em, I do them like so (these are my suggestions, YMMV, use at
your own risk):
Disconnect the battery and pull the alternator completely (or I should say I
have the owner do it). Label and pull the plug wires and bag the distributor
and coil. Label and pull the belts. Examine all the electrical connections
in the work area. Label and pull electrical connectors that can't be readily
dried (generally female ends and such), put the ends into baggies and tape
them tightly. Clean and seal inline connections. Cover/wrap the oil filler
and dipstick, as well as the tranny fluid filler/dipstick if you have an
auto. Make sure your air intake system is tight tight tight. Clean these
surfaces by hand so that your tape will stick (you can use shipping tape or
duct tape, it doesn't have to live long). You can use a heavy kitchen
plastic wrap (easier to get into tight places than painter's plastic, for
instance) and tape up the end points.
Make sure any other points of entry into the engine itself (vacuum
connections, etc.) are tight. Generally use common sense about any potential
breach and seal it. Make sure the reservoir caps are tight and whole.
Check the firewall for openings, check the areas where hoses/wire harnesses
pass through. Seal what needs to be sealed. Check out the layout around the
computer, if you don't like what you see, pull it. Better safe than sorry.
You can pretty effectively 'tent' the rear of the Vgon at the hatch opening.
You might want to drape your interior in case you get too enthusiastic and
blow your tent to hell. It happens.
You don't have to use 'Gunk' or 'Canned Steam' or the like necessarily, but
it works. I haven't found Simple Green to be very effective on petroleum
applications. You want to be careful not to use a caustic or anything else
that will adversely interact with your engine rubber/gaskets/hoses. Some
people put Dawn or the like in a spray bottle and use that. Read the label.
BTW, start with a cold engine. You could help yourself by putting the van on
jack stands and pulling the rear tires, but that's up to you. I'd probably
go ahead and clean the whole undercarriage while I was at it, but that's me.
Use a low pressure tight pattern; fifteen degrees is good. You don't need
ass-kickin' pressure to do the job (in most cases, I use have to use high
pressure on heavy construction equipment, for instance) and you shouldn't
need to get in to close (closer = higher pressure). Work from the center
towards and off the edge of the work at an angle. Don't 'stab' the work with
the spray, you want to be particularly careful about driving water and crap
into joints, under gaskets, etc. To be thorough, consider each angle; work
from the rear up to about the 'front' of the heads, then turn around; when
underneath, work primarily from the front of the engine/tranny toward the
rear bumper, you don't want to blow all that crap up into the rest of your
undercarriage (remember, the general principle here is to clean from the
center out). For that matter, if you're good (and careful), you could move
your plastic aside a bit and hit the inside rear of the compartment from
over the back seat. Don't get heavy around the CV joints/boots. Use
controlled, directed bursts, don't just wave the thing all around hoping to
hit something.
Think about what is 'down range' (behind or beside your vehicle); your
kid's bike, the neighbor's dog, your wife's car will not benefit from the
overspray. Don't get it into your grass/shrubbery. Don't let it drain down
the street. Have somebody pick it up in a wet vac.
If you're using a home-type pressure washer, be aware that in most cases the
pumps are not designed to have hot water run through them; it usually says
in the manual that they're only good for 140 degrees or thereabouts and you
can void the warranty if you use hot water. Most home water heaters are set
lower than that, so you may be able to get away with some heat, keeping in
mind that the pump itself generates some heat. Again, unless you have a very
heavy buildup, you don't need to bomb it, it should clean up fairly readily.
Dry/detail by hand for the best results. Don't leave standing water.
Have a beer.
There may be things particular to Vanagons (pull the engine tin) that others
may be aware of, as you said. I dimly remember something about the O2 sensor
or maybe the various sensors in general- others can chime in there.
I think that's all of it. Hope that helps.
Cya,
Robert
----- Original Message -----
From: "vze1zbyi@verizon.net" <briwasson@VERIZON.NET>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2005 12:34 PM
Subject: Best way to clean engine?
> Hi all,
>
> I'd like to clean the engine on my 88 Westy, as the PO let it get pretty
grimy. I'm thinking of having it steam-cleaned, but have read (on this list)
stories of problems after washing the engine. Any precautions I should take?
I plan to carefully mask off the rear cabinets, seat, etc., with plastic to
keep the interior from getting ruined.
>
> Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!
>
> Brian W.