Date: Tue, 26 Apr 2005 22:10:07 -0700
Reply-To: Kevin <vwfixer@CENTURYTEL.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Kevin <vwfixer@CENTURYTEL.NET>
Subject: Re: Propex heater
In-Reply-To: <1312ead84fee0644bd17fca345465484@mac.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1250"
Kim,
For ease of installation you can get the propane place to make you up a
rubber propane line and not use the copper.
Kevin
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM]On Behalf Of
Kim Brennan
Sent: Tuesday, April 26, 2005 9:43 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Propex heater
Well, Karl is once again mentioning he's got Propex heaters to sell.
I finally got around to running a copper propane line to mine. So I
figured a few notes were in order.
#1 If you are used to removing your rear bench on your Westy, then you
might not want to install the Propex heater in the most logical
spot...under the rear bench, because once it is there, you probably
won't ever pull the seat again.
#2 The fittings that came on the Propex are a compression fitting.
That's not the US standard, which uses flare fittings for propane. It's
easy to switch.
#3 I've see references to folks that ran 1/4" copper tube. The Propex
manual says to use 9mm. 9mm is .354 inches. So 3/8 inch copper is
actually closer (and is what I used.) However bending 3/8 copper is a
LOT harder than 1/4...3/8 is pretty much what Westfalia used for the
existing copper lines, FWIW.
#4 Copper is flexible and will accept a bit of bending in order to run
it through the cabinets to the Propex heater. However, you should be
aware that you'll need sufficient space at the gas end to get the
fitting in place. I almost didn't give myself enough room. I got 10
feet of copper. I had about 3 inches extra at the end. Depending on how
you want to run the copper lines, you might want to get a few more
feet.
#5 Fittings. Propane places won't sell you the parts (Liability I
guess). You can get the parts at Home Depot. You can get the flare
tools, copper tube, fittings and bending tools there too. Oh, and a
pipe cutter.
#6 Splicing into the existing lines. I chose to splice into the
existing lines (I connected to the fridge side for convienence, where
as I probably would have preferred to connect to the stove side.)
You'll need a Tee fitting with flare connections, 3 flare style caps,
pipe cutter and a good eye for guessing how much of the existing line
to remove to accomodate the tee (and still connect up to the existing
appliances.) Remember to put the flare caps on the copper tube BEFORE
you flare the tube...One the propex side you'll need a 3/8 adapter to
flare adapter another flare cap.
I spliced into my fridge line essentially at the last straight section
before the final bend to the fridge connection. There was just barely
enough room to get the cap on and still flare the tube for the tee. The
copper tube I ran to the heater went down from the Tee fitting to the
base of the cabinet. A 90 degree turn to the rear through the gap at
the back of the fridge/stove cabinet towards the next cabinet over.
Then along the back of that cabinet to the gap in the divider (I had to
remove the divider while running the copper line. The divider was
reinstalled afterwards.) Then another bend to a hole to the left of the
electrical outlet which leads into the area below the rear bench. Then
along the front of the area under the rear bench to the heater
(installed on the passenger side compartment under the rear bench.)
Tomorrow I'll polish up my installation by installing clamps on the
tube to hold in place. Hopefully I'll get a chance during this coming
weekend's camping to try it out.
--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.10.3 - Release Date: 4/25/2005
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.10.3 - Release Date: 4/25/2005