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Date:         Sun, 1 May 2005 09:02:37 -0700
Reply-To:     mark drillock <drillock@EARTHLINK.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         mark drillock <drillock@EARTHLINK.NET>
Subject:      Re: My hats off to you do it yourselfers
Comments: To: "Tom L. Salicos" <TomSalicos@COMCAST.NET>
In-Reply-To:  <001e01c54e6d$13b0e8d0$a5b2ab43@omar>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Too late to help you now I guess but there is a far easier way to deal with the Syncro tank and the tight fit at the left end where the sender plate hits. I use a piece of tough flexible plastic, like the lid to a storage bin or even a piece of coolant jug, etc. Cut a 6x8" or so piece out. Slide it up between the frame rail and the tank sender plate. Now the tank can be forced down without the fuel hose nipple or the plate studs catching on the frame rail edge. It is still a battle but you don't need to flex the end of the tank nearly so much. The same method works reinstalling the tank. I have done this on 5 or 6 Syncros.

Mark

Tom L. Salicos wrote:

> > > Hi Daryl, > > For me, removing and replacing the Syncro fuel tank is about the worst > thing > I ever did voluntarily. And that would include Basic Training at Ft. > Lewis > during the winter................. > I had done two things that helped: 1) The left frame member had extra > steel > sticking out so I ground it back. 2) I dremmeled off the extra > length of > the sender's studs so they would clear better. They were at least 1/4" > longer than necessary. You still shove and pry the thing back up, but > with > the jack, you can assert upward force while you pry.


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