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Date:         Thu, 5 May 2005 23:27:20 -0700
Reply-To:     Gerald Masar <azsun99@EARTHLINK.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Gerald Masar <azsun99@EARTHLINK.NET>
Subject:      second propane tank with links (long)
Comments: cc: Brien Dews <vwvanagon@gmail.com>,
          Bob Stevens <mtbiker62@HOTMAIL.COM>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

First off, I took information from several sources, sites and personal e-mails, some with photos, some without, digested it and went my own way. Also, I had just moved a propane furnace (Trumatic, not available here), from my '88 Westy to my '90, so was interested in how others had installed their furnaces as well. The following site, from the Clarksons, has an excellent write-up, with good photos, of the install of a Propex furnace under the rear seat. They removed the fridge and connected the furnace where it had been connected. I did the same, although my furnace is in the little compartment near the floor to the left of the fridge. This site also has other mods you will find interesting. http://www.gmavt.net/~clarkson/projects04.htm The above site also includes links to a 5-part series of msgs in the vanagon archives by Tom Forhan dating back to 1996!

Another site about installing a second propane tank belongs to Richard Jones: http://hometown.aol.com/realsf/howtopage2.html

And for those interested in installing a vented Platinum Catalytic heater, there is this site from Harold Rust: http://www.geocities.com/harald_nancy/plat_cat_heater.htm

A message just this week, from Ryan Press, on the Yahoo Vanagon list has a link to photos of his installation: http://www.presslab.us/gallery/van2ndtank

My tank also came from my '88 Westy. It was in pretty good condition, with minimal rust spots, so I just scraped, wired brushed and sanded as needed. Same for the rock guard. I did clean all of the paint off the brass fittings, so with shiny brass and new paint, less likely to be questioned by the person filling it.Then I sprayed it with Rustoleum Rusty Metal primer (the red kind), and then Rustoleum gloss white. As an afterthought, to deaden sound and further protect the ends and bottom, I masked off the top and fittings and sprayed the rest with rubberized undercoating, for a black and white look! Sprayed the bottom of the rock guard with the same stuff.

Next, this tank did not have a regulator, so while on a trip to San Diego, I stopped by an RV place and bought a Marshall Brass model 290. Well, it seems there are two kinds of the same model. You want this one, preferably with weather covers: http://www.busdepot.com/busdepot/details.jsp?partnumber=253070604 The vent should be facing down, not parallel to the flow of gas, as on the one I bought. I made my own regulator cover, but that's another story.

Now, on to the installation. Assuming you are installing on the right side, below and inboard of the sliding door, the two rear studs should already be in place. Clean these off BEFORE you try to hang the tank, so you are not supporting it with one hand and trying to thread the nuts on crudded-up studs with the other. I used a small wire brush and then threaded the nuts on, backing them off occasionally to clean off the crud. Now, for the front two, you will have to pry up the vinyl covered plywood floor. Remove the metal cover just inside the slider. There are also 5 or 6 screws further over to remove. You don't have to pry up the whole floor, just the right front corner. And its only 1/2" thick, so it will bend. Use a strong, flat prybar, and as it comes up, you can put wood blocks underneath to hold it up as you work. Because of the ribbed metal floor, there are wooden spacer strips attached to the underside of wood floor. These are glued to the metal floor, so you will hear a cracking sound as they come loose. In my case, the strip along the door opening stayed glued to the metal floor and the staples pulled out of the wood floor. I cut these off and flattened them down, so as not to cut my hand on them. You only need 3" or 4" of clearance. Reach in with a stubby Phillips screw driver to remove the plastic inserts in the nuts that are welded to the floor. You might have to use an off-set driver to get the inner one. Now you can screw the new bolts in. I found two in my years-old collection of salvaged parts. I believe the proper size is M10-1.5 x 45mm. I used a flat washer under each. Now that's done, put the floor back down. I squirted a little ProBond glue in where the strips had been glued, but I think with the metal strip and the other screws holding the floor down, it isn't really necessary.

Now, you are ready to mount the tank. It only weighs 35LB, but for this 66 y.o., 116 LB weakling, it was a challenge :). The holes in the straps are open-ended, so what I did, was put just the nuts a little ways on the two inner studs. If you are doing this flat on your back, have the other nuts handy (don't bother with the washers right now), get your arm under and hoist that sucker up so that the two inner slots slide over the nuts on the inner studs. Hold it there while you thread on one of the outer nuts, and you are home free! Now you can put the 4th nut on with washers and then go back to the others one at a time. I used two flat washers, a large one and small one and a lock washer. For the two outer studs, you will have to file one side of the flat washers down so they will fit up beside the frame.

Now you are ready to connect the two tanks. Others have run the copper line along the rear lip of the frame where the fuel tank straps are also supported. On mine, I replaced the lower existing 'L' fitting on #1 tank with a 'T' fitting (this also retained the correct spacing for the existing connections to the stove and fridge), and since on the #2 tank, the fitting on the regulator is facing aft (rearward), I ran the copper line (about 10' was required) around the back, along the side frame and then along the front of the main cross-frame, up and over the shift linkage, etc., and up and around the water tank drain, keeping it as high as possible. The only sharp bend is this latter one. The connection to both fittings is now pretty much straight on. The tube is secured to the cross frame at three locations with vinyl coated clips and to the #1 tank support strap with a cable tie.

Here are some additional tips: Use new 3/8" refrigeration-type (annealed) tubing. It's easier to work with. Old stuff becomes harden with working and bending. You can probably make most of the bends without a tubing bender. I used a pliers type (from Checker Auto) to make the sharp bend up behind the water tank drain. When you push the tubing through, put tape or a cap over the open end to keep out dirt. I made the flares after everything was in place and lined up. BE SURE TO PUT THE FLARE NUT ON BEFORE FLARING! For most of the connections, I used Lasco brand Teflon Pipe Compound, rather than the yellow gas tape. You can use it on the flare fitting as well because it lubricates the threads.

When everything is hooked up, and the tank(s) filled you can check all of the connections with soapy water. I applied it with a soft paint brush, and used an inspection mirror to look at the backside of all connections. Also have good lighting. I had no leaks at any time. Last thing is replace the rock guards. Last thing for me was to transfer the right-front mud flap over from the '88 Westy donor.

Hope this helps someone. It's kind of long, but the more you know before you start, the faster it goes. Thanks to those who have the Web Sites listed above and those who answered questions, provided photos, either to me or to the list when this subject has come up previously.

Jerry, in Arizona, where it's now more like "heat, heat, we don't need no stinking heat!". P.S. I did take digital photos, of the tank and sections of the install, but it was hard to get good ones from underneath. I can send them if interested.


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