Date: Mon, 2 May 2005 06:23:47 -0400
Reply-To: Dennis Haynes <dhaynes@OPTONLINE.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Dennis Haynes <dhaynes@OPTONLINE.NET>
Subject: Re: california smog issues and synthetic oil
In-Reply-To: <20050502043436.99091.qmail@web41308.mail.yahoo.com>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
I don't think synthetic oil will be all that helpful for passing
emissions but there is no doubt that it has benefits. I have been doing
oil testing on my vehicles now for about a year and there is no reason
not to go 7,500 miles between changes with a good synthetic so unless
you are using a lot of oil that alone offsets the cost. Mobil now
has"Extended Performance" oil they guarantee for 15,000 miles or 1 year.
I think that is pushing things. I did go 13,500 (1 year) in my Fox. My
wife's Audi reports indicate about 12k is the limit for that engine
which now has 179k on it. 2 weeks ago there where 4 Vanagons here with
over 200k on the original engines, (including mine). What did they have
in common? Mobil 1 15w-50. Fun Bus even has the original head gaskets.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf
Of gary hradek
Sent: Monday, May 02, 2005 12:35 AM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: california smog issues and synthetic oil
I have a 98 passat1.8t and 87 westy waterleaker.
Finest german engineering you can buy.
So at 4 dollars a quart for synthetic I am sold on the
synthetic for my hot running Passat. My wife claims
I am cheap so It is hard to say I can spend 4 dollars
for a quart of oil and say I am sold on it but I am.
I am wondering if the next time I need to pass smog
with my vanagon if I should spend the 15 dollars extra
to put in synthetic in hopes that I might pass smog as
the last time I passed by a cocks feather. It is
clear to me that the synthetic has a much lower vapor
pressure. Anyone out there using this in their
vanagons? thanks gary
--- Automatic digest processor
<LISTSERV@GERRY.VANAGON.COM> wrote:
> There are 20 messages totalling 1118 lines in this
> issue.
>
> Topics in this special issue:
>
> 1. Stalling and running rough
> 2. help interpreting starter problem (4)
> 3. [Fwd: Re: help interpreting starter problem]
> 4. Van/camper rentals in Europe? (2)
> 5. Vanagon (4)
> 6. Wasserleaker -- we will soldier on, but how?
> 7. Camping in the Poconos
> 8. no power in the low end
> 9. Fri. - working on gravel surface
> 10. Diesel vs. Gas
> 11. Need Automatic Transmission (2)
> 12. westy cold = rich
>
>
----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 1 May 2005 21:06:52 +0100
> From: Stew <stew@SWITCH99.F2S.COM>
> Subject: Re: Stalling and running rough
>
> Joel,
> Thanks for that.
> I will give it a go on Tuesday when I get a day off.
> Thanks again,
> Stew.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 1 May 2005 16:13:29 -0400
> From: Mike Collum <collum@VERIZON.NET>
> Subject: Re: help interpreting starter problem
>
> On my '85 I installed a remote starter switch in the
> engine bay as I got
> tired of walking back and forth to the front when I
> wanted to just run
> the starter. It's a Wal*mart switch that cost me
> about $2.98. It's
> mounted on the passenger side firewall and one wire
> runs to the
> starter's BIG terminal with the other going to the
> small one (works the
> same as jumping the terminals at the starter).
>
> Anyway ... one can "jump" the terminals with the
> starter installed which
> will eliminate the ignition switch and its wiring.
>
> Mike C.
>
>
>
> Doug Demarest wrote:
> > Hello,
> >
> > so I got a bit flamed on friday for an apparently
> > bone-headed method of checking my old starter in
> my 86
> > Vanagon 2.1 ...anyway, here is what I have now
> and,
> > being a novice, I'm not sure how to interpret it:
> >
> > Testing my starter at the FLAPS gave intermittent
> > results--it worked on the first try, but then he
> > couldn't get it to fire again. It was pretty old
> and I
> > decided to get a new (rebuilt) bosch starter
> rather
> > than continue to mess around. Unfortunately, I am
> > still messing around.
> >
> > I installed the new starter yesterday. Upon
> turning
> > the key and i can hear the fuel pump and a click
> of
> > the solenoid but no cranking at all.
> >
> > My battery shows 12.6 volts. Upon turning the key
> I
> > measure 12.6 volts at the small wire that connects
> to
> > the solenoid. Regardless of the positon of the
> > ignition key, I get around 12.4 volts at the long
> > terminal screw on the starter that is connected to
> the
> > battery (is this normal?). With the key turned in
> the
> > ignition, I get .7 volts at the shorter terminal
> > screw. With out the key on, I get 0.
> >
> > Is the solenoid bad on my new starter? My
> intuition
> > says I should get 12 volts at the shorter terminal
> > screw if the solenoid is sending power to the
> starter
> > motor.
> >
> > Any help interpreting this is appreciated,
> >
> > doug
> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 1 May 2005 16:18:40 -0400
> From: Mike Collum <collum@VERIZON.NET>
> Subject: [Fwd: Re: help interpreting starter
> problem]
>
> I forgot the caution .... Make SURE the transmission
> is in neutral
> before operating the switch.
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> On my '85 I installed a remote starter switch in the
> engine bay as I got
> tired of walking back and forth to the front when I
> wanted to just run
> the starter. It's a Wal*mart switch that cost me
> about $2.98. It's
> mounted on the passenger side firewall and one wire
> runs to the
> starter's BIG terminal with the other going to the
> small one (works the
> same as jumping the terminals at the starter).
>
> Anyway ... one can "jump" the terminals with the
> starter installed which
> will eliminate the ignition switch and its wiring.
>
> Mike C.
>
>
>
> Doug Demarest wrote:
> > Hello,
> >
> > so I got a bit flamed on friday for an apparently
> > bone-headed method of checking my old starter in
> my 86
> > Vanagon 2.1 ...anyway, here is what I have now
> and,
> > being a novice, I'm not sure how to interpret it:
> >
> > Testing my starter at the FLAPS gave intermittent
> > results--it worked on the first try, but then he
> > couldn't get it to fire again. It was pretty old
> and I
> > decided to get a new (rebuilt) bosch starter
> rather
> > than continue to mess around. Unfortunately, I am
> > still messing around.
> >
> > I installed the new starter yesterday. Upon
> turning
> > the key and i can hear the fuel pump and a click
> of
> > the solenoid but no cranking at all.
> >
> > My battery shows 12.6 volts. Upon turning the key
> I
> > measure 12.6 volts at the small wire that connects
> to
> > the solenoid. Regardless of the positon of the
> > ignition key, I get around 12.4 volts at the long
> > terminal screw on the starter that is connected to
> the
> > battery (is this normal?). With the key turned in
> the
> > ignition, I get .7 volts at the shorter terminal
> > screw. With out the key on, I get 0.
> >
> > Is the solenoid bad on my new starter? My
> intuition
> > says I should get 12 volts at the shorter terminal
> > screw if the solenoid is sending power to the
> starter
> > motor.
> >
> > Any help interpreting this is appreciated,
> >
> > doug
> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 1 May 2005 23:22:42 +0200
> From: Didier Don <didier.don@WANADOO.FR>
> Subject: Re: Van/camper rentals in Europe?
>
> I guess this is the standard price in France in
> July. Renting a car is
> expensive partly because the VAT is very high
> (around 20%). It's about the
>
=== message truncated ===
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
| 
