Date: Mon, 23 May 2005 16:06:52 -0700
Reply-To: Ken Herman <kenherman@MAC.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Ken Herman <kenherman@MAC.COM>
Subject: Dash removal in a 2.1...who's got the good procedure?
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
This was gleaned from the vanagon list years ago. I forget who the
original author was, but he deserves the credit, not me.
1) Instrument cluster removal:Pull the instrument panel off and
remove all the wiring. There are 4 Phillips #2 screws holding the
plastic tab of the instrument cluster. Be careful that these tabs are
not too brittle with the cold. They will break and shatter. Wiggle you
hand behind the spedo and unclip the spedo cable. Just squeeze the
connector and it will come out. Next pull out the switches by pressing
the tabs to release them from the cluster. The cluster should lift out
and remove the big wire connector plug. This will provide you room to
get under the dash board. Put the cluster in a safe place that you will
not sit or lay other components on.
2) Vent lever removal: Release all the vent levers. You will be
able to see the mounting nut after the instrument panel is removed. You
may have to remove the front and rear heater fan switches as well. And
any auxiliary wiring on the dash.
3) Radio: Remove the radio ñ you are on your own here
4) Glove box: Remove the glove box ñ press the retaining tabs and
lower the box to the floor board. Slide it off its pivot. Be careful
not to press the retaining tabs to much or too hard, they could be
brittle and break.
5) Syncro dash plate: Remove the Syncro dash plate and Diff lock
switch(es).
6) Steering column: Remove the two bolts holding the steering
column to the dash frame. These are safety bolts without a head because
it is meant to snap off when the bolts are torque at the factory. I
used a pair of vise grips and was able to turn these bolts loose. I
replaced them with normal bolts. I think they are a thread of 8x1.25 mm
and 25 cm long. The steering column will drop to the driverís seat and
that is ok and out of the way.
7) Dashboard attachment: Unbolt the dashboard ñ
a. 6 or 8 big Philips head below the windshield
b. 4 big bolts along the door jams. You will need to be able to
open the doors wide enough to get your screwdriver/bolt driver in there
8) Dash removal: Ok the Dash should be loose and ready to pull off.
a. Lift it up slowly and check what else is still wired and
connected, like the cig lighter or AC switches, You will have to unplug
all.
b. I did it by myself but with an extra person it sure is easier to
lift and pull the dash out one side or the other.
9) Review the heater unit: With the dash out you can now see the
heater unit shell.
a. Fastening clips: Check to see if there are black metallic clips
(11 of them) snapping the upper half of this heater together. This is
an indication that your heater has been pull out and separated once
before for service. If there are no clips then this is the first time
this heater unit is being serviced. There is a smooth factory mold
gluing the upper and lower half of the heater unit sealed from the
factory. You will have to run a blade or knife along this edge to
separate the two halves. Make sure that you order the 11 clips
available only at the VW dealers. It will be to! ugh on a Sunday
afternoon to find these at NAPA. They cost about $2 or so. I can get
you the right part number if you wish.
b. Heater unit support: Ok the heater unit is held in place by 4
long Philips screws, 2 inside the cabin and 2 from outside by the
headlights. You will have to remove the front upper grill to get to
these. Once you remove the grill you will see against the firewall just
the Phillips head holding a felt or soft washer. These should be the
upper supporting screws for the heater unit. They may be rusted to
where you cannot get your screwdriver into it. Just work it and donít
strip it or rush this part. On the inside the screws should be
easier. You may need a long Phillips #2 screw! driver.
c. Coolant hose removal: You will also need remove the coolant
hoses coming up from the bell housing. Be neat and try to capture any
coolant drips before they get to the rug. I used lots of newspaper rags
and paper towels. Not too much came out when I did this, but the heater
core is full of coolant so when you take the actual heater unit out be
aware that some coolant may drip. I put a couple of corks in the pipes
to keep them as sealed as I could.
10) Removal out of the van: Ok the disassembly is complete you are
ready to take the heater unit out of the van for the service. Again
plug the coolant pipes and hoses to not loose too much coolant and to
not let it drip in the van.
11) Servicing the Heater Unit:
a. Separate the two halves: with the heater unit in your work area
you can now separate the shells and get to the fan motor. See the seam
between the two shell and try to run a knife or a blade along that
seam. Be patient and work it slowly to not damage anything and
yourself. Refer to the Bentley instructions if need be. Again make sure
that you have the VW engineered clips to buckle these two halves once
you are ready to re install.
b. Replace the Heater Fan: With the two halves split you can now
service the fan motor. I recall that it easily comes out. You will
probably have to remove the squirrel cages from you old motor and
insert them on the new motor. It may take a very small allen wrench for
thatÖ donít know? Forgot? Mark the orientation of all the parts to fit
back in place properly and in the right direction. Refit the new fan
motor and test it out with a 12 volt source. Make sure it works and
spins in the correct direction.
c. Wiring the Heater Fan: The wires are connected/soldered to the
big green resistor. This is what provides the 3 fan speeds. You will
also note the three or four wires coming from the switch to the big
resistor. Do you soldering tricks and remember where the yellow, brown,
black wires go. If the big green resistor is cracked or blackened it
may need to be replaced as well. Test it out on all three speeds
d. Heater core servicing: You may choose to service other
components of the heater unit such as the heater radiator core of the
vent flaps. You can check the heater core for any leakage, which you
could have smelled as sweet maple syrup prior to taking this job on.
You can remove the heater core and flush it out or look for any signs
of leaks. In which case it would be very very wise to change the heater
core as well since you have it all out and can do it right.
e. Vent Flaps Servicing: While you are at it, check the foam seals
around all the flaps. These are usually burned out and may need to be
replaced. I made all the replacement foam from foam pieces that I had
laying around from old packages. Go to a hardware store and check out
the foam material in the heating and air conditioning section. They
usually will have some material that will work. You cannot get this
from VW so you have to custom make this. The important flaps to check
are the lower! flaps. The rubber seal here is what stops warm air from
coming into the cab in the summer time.
12) Reinstallation: OK you are done. I'm done, I cant think of
anything else at the moment. Reassemble the two halves using the 11
clips. Refit the heater unit in the van, refit the coolant hoses on the
heater core. Check the vent cabling to ensure that all works well
inside the box. Refit and remount everything in reverse order and you
should be golden
13) Fill the coolant and bleed the circuit as described on the list or
in Bentley. Flush the air out and you are set.
