Date: Wed, 1 Jun 2005 18:36:29 -0500
Reply-To: Stan Wilder <wilden1-1@SBCGLOBAL.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Stan Wilder <wilden1-1@SBCGLOBAL.NET>
Subject: Re: Steam Cleaning?
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Sure as there are little green apples you'll be needing to work on that
engine some.
Clean it with Gunk engine cleaner, just go to the $1.00 car wash and clean
it down a few times.
Don't be afraid to get dirty, get right down under there with a stiff
bristle parts cleaner brush while you lay on some cardboard to protect your
sunday best.
One you get it clean top and bottom you'll be abvle to identify the various
parts that make up the Fuel Injection system, ignition system and EGR
systems.
Carry a fire extinguisher, a can of WD40 with you when you go to clean the
engine.
A few dry rags should dry out the distributor cap, dry off the spark plug
wires if it won't start after the cleaning.
----------------- Ready to clean the inside of the
engine????????? -------------------------------------------
Shaping Up that new Old Vanagon or Westy
This document addresses both Air Cooled Type IV 75-83 and Water Cooled
Engines 83-91. It does not Include Diesel or Conversions of any type.
Since you're new to the vehicle its important that you get the basic heart
of your vehicle in good condition. (BE WARNED! Cleaning your engine can open
up oil leaks that are currently sealed with carbon deposits or sludge. It
can remove carbon build up from under your rings and cause temporary oil
burning until the rings reseat themselves. They may never reseat of the
engine is very high mileage).
In many cases the Previous Owner has used Oil additives or even special
Infomercial products to chemically fix problems. These additives can lead to
problems especially those with Teflon in Air Cooled engines.
It is standard procedure to avoid all oil additives in VW Air Cooled and
Water Cooled engines. In many cases additives have been used to quieten
lifters, piston slap, wrist pin clicking or other noise. You definitely want
to get rid of these additives before they harm your engine. They may have
been added to raise oil pressure or hide any number of on-coming problems.
The procedure listed below is my suggestion of what you should do as soon as
you get your new vehicle.
#1) Check the oil; drain off about a quart of oil through the drain plug,
strainer plate or other means. Be sure you get a full quart out, if you get
too much you can put it back in as required.
#2) Purchase a quart of Gunk / Siloo /Rislone / Berryman B12 or other brand
of engine flush and pour it into the engine crankcase. Follow the
instructions on the can. Most flushed require only 5 minutes on a cold
engine.
#3) Run the engine flush for the recommended time and drain it off. Install
a new filter and clean the strainer if you have one. Pour in your new engine
oil; hold back that last quart of oil. Pour in a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil
with the new engine oil. Run the vehicle for about 300 miles with the
Mystery Oil Mix in the crankcase. It is best to get this 300 miles around
town over a period of one week so the cleaning agents in the Mystery Oil
have time to De-carbon the interior of your engine and clean your lifters.
You can run this mix for a thousand miles without damage so don't bother to
change at exactly 300 miles. What we're wanting to accomplish is just
getting the engine to full operating temperature about ten times over a one
week period.
#4) While running the 300 miles with the Mystery Oil blend in your crankcase
you should also run 16 oz of Mystery Oil through your fuel system in a full
tank of Gasoline to clean your combustion chambers, piston tops, valves,
injectors and ring groves.
#5) After you've completed this procedure you should install a new filter
(Mahle or Mann), clean your strainer if you have one and install the new
engine oil. Leave the oil level about ¼" below the MAX level on your oil
dipstick. Stop putting oil in at three quarts and start your engine. Let the
engine run for a few minutes and then check your oil level after you have
killed the engine and it has set for ten minutes. This will have given the
oil enough time to circulate through the system and drip back to your pan
giving a true oil level reading. Add enough oil to bring the level up to the
¼" below the MAX mark on your dipstick.
#6) adjusting your lifters: (this section applies only to hydraulic lifters
and stock VW camshafts)
Lifter adjustment should be done on a cold engine.
Locate Top Dead Center on #1 cylinder by dropping a thin wire through the #1
spark plug hole and rotating the engine until piston top squeezes the thin
wire between the piston top and the cylinder head (don't force it) the
rotor arm should be pointing very close to the notch in your distributor rim
if you're at TDC. If not you're 180 degrees off. While you're adjusting the
valves inspect the valve stems for chips and the adjusting screws for heavy
pitting. Either of these signs can represent a weak / bad lifter or a valve
seat that is loose. (minor pitting of adjusting screws OK most of the time.)
Adjust #1 valves at the following settings.
Option #1: One full turn down from the point that the rocker arm just
touches the valve stem.
Option #2: Using a feeler gauge set the clearance to .006 as the rocker arm
just touches the valve stem.
Both settings have worked for me and many others. Do Not Use the full two
turns as described in Hayes, Muir or Bentley Manuals.
#1. Remove the valve covers. Read the part number on your heads, make sure
that they are the same.
VW heads will have a VW Logo on them, AMC heads will not and they won't have
a part number. The one thing you need to establish is that are both VW or
both AMC. You can't mix the heads, they should be the same.
#2. Loosen the adjusting nuts about two full turns.
#3. Start the engine for about 1 minute. Be sure you've got some cardboard
under there to catch any oil that slings out. Most cases there will be very
little.
#4. Go to the back of the car and slip another piece of cardboard under
there so I don't lay in the oil that dripped.
#5. Bring #1 cylinder up to TDC, Remove #1 Plug, I use a flashlight and a
piece of flat steel that comes off windshield wiper blades to get TDC.
(others use a screwdriver or coat hanger wire) The steel will not rotate
when the piston is at TDC but it doesn't bind the piston. (depends on your
piston/head clearance)
#6. I rotate my distributor so the notch in the distributor rim is right in
line with the rotor arm.
#7. I adjust the first #1 intake and exhaust valves to one turn after the
rocker arm just touches the valve stem. Or use Bobs way of .006 with a
feeler gauge (you are eliminating pre load by using his method, nothing
wrong with it).
#8. Since I've got a manual transmission I put the gearbox in 2nd gear and
rock the car until the next cylinder comes up to TDC, I watch the rotor arm
and when it is 90 degrees past the notch and first position I set the next
valves. (leave the spark plugs in, only #1 needs to be removed)
#9. While all this is going on the sealer that sticks my new valve cover
gaskets to the valve covers is setting.
#10. Just follow through on each cylinder until you've got them all set.
#11. Check the general condition of your valve stems (no chips) and your
adjusting screws (few tiny pits OK, but no chips or hard wear signs).
#12. Reinstall your valve covers.
#13. Crank your engine, pay attention to the oil light, if it doesn't come
on immediately stop cranking and then crank again.
#14. Your engine may be noisy for as long as 15 minutes, don't panic. Just
take a gentle trip around the block and it will normally settle in.
#15. I don't bleed the lifters, I've never to my knowledge had air locked
lifters. If the above procedure doesn't quieten your lifters then you could
possibly have the air locked problem. If you do you'll just have to follow
the procedures in the Bentley or get info from Boston Bob about the bleeding
procedure.
#16. I made a tool consisting of a wood dowel with a finish nail in the end
of it so I could bleed the lifters, pushing it down in the relief valve
releases pressure in the lifter but I envisioned it as introducing air into
the lifters and could never see that it did anything. It could be an option
if you decide to try it.
#7) After adjusting the valves your engine may be hard to start. Give it a
few tries and it should start up. The lifters may be noisy for a few minutes
and this can continue for fifteen minutes. I've found that a quick trip
around the block at moderate normal speeds will normally quieten the lifters
after the adjustment process.
#8) Clean all electrical connections in your engine compartment. You can use
spray Berryman B12 or other spray carburetor cleaner. Agitate the cleaner
with a brush at each connection and then give it a shot of cleaner to rinse
out the residue.
#9) Inspect the condition of your Distributor Cap (Air Cooled Require Copper
Contacts, Water Cooled can use either Aluminum or Copper). Inspect your
Rotor Arm for burnt contractor end. Inspect you spark plug wire (Air Cooled
Require solid core, Water Cooled Require Graphite Fiber Wires). Clean all
connectors in the cap, spark coil and wire to plug. It is best to have all
Bosch brand ignition but other brands are good as long as they meet the
required contractor requirements. If you have a point set ignition the
points should be inspected and adjusted to .016/. 020, this will get you
within the required dwell range. Rule: Dwell changes timing so if you change
dwell you'll need to reset your timing. Be sure that the right spark plugs
are installed.
#10) Set your timing as specified by the manual you are using for reference.
Take special care to check the timing at the full advance specified. While
progressing from idle timing setting to the full advance setting the advance
should be constant without dropping back and forth during the increase of
engine speed. The timing mark on the Air Cooled is a small saw cut in the
rim of the Fan, it is difficult to see and a drop of Liquid Paper or white
paint will be a big assist in sighting it with the timing light.
#11) Replace your fuel filter, don't pass this up just because the PO said
it had a new filter. The Berryman or other Fuel Injection may have loosened
up ancient contamination in your fuel tank and started blocking the filter
with debris.
#12) Test your fuel pressure at the fuel rail per specifications of the
manual you are using.
#13) Visually check all fuel lines for leaks. Replace any leaking lines or
lines that are hard, have splits or any aging signs.
#14) Check all vacuum lines for leaks, replace all lines that are soft,
split or have loose connection. Installing hose clamps on vacuum lines is a
good idea.
#15) Addressing oil leaks, primarily on Type IV air cooled engines. (nothing
here for Water Cooled)
a) Clean your engine top to bottom before pointing at any particular
location as a possible leaking spot.
b) Most common leaking areas on an air cooled are, valve cover gaskets,
push rod tube O rings, loose oil filter, bad gasket on the strainer plate.
c) It is best to get the O rings and valve cover gaskets replaced right
with the initial investigation of oil leaks. It narrows down a lot of
options.
Tips:
All ignition wires should be copper core, even the coil wire, rotor arm
brass tip should be about 3/8" wide, narrow blades don't seem to get the
full timing arc., contactors in the distributor should be copper.
The injector lines between the fuel rail and the injector sometimes have a
very tiny leak, impossible to see except with a very bright flashlight that
makes them show up. Wrapping them with paper towel will sometimes disclose a
leak.
Tip: I had a failing spark coil, van ran fine but tach read below proper
rpms in the 2500 up range. Low speed and idle it looked OK. New coil, van
ran better and cleaner.
The tiny notch in the fan pulley is very hard to see.
Remove the crossover black pipe for the alternator forced air, remove the
bug screen over the fan. Mark the timing on the timing arc and the pulley
with liquid paper, white paint etc. so it can be seen.
The idle is the large screw in the throttle body, it just controls fine tune
idle characteristics.
The AFM screw may still be under the aluminum plug that you need to get out
(1/8" drill, put sheet metal screw in and pull out). The AFM adjustment
screw can be an Allen socket or straight slot.
Be sure that the EGR valve on the intake distribution box is either working
or blocked off.
Check for vacuum leaks .............. everywhere.
Also check to be sure you don't have any fuel leaks (I've had leaks at the
pump, cracked rubber hose).
Partial blocked catalytic converter can cause poor mileage as well.
If you set your points to .016 /.020 you'll be in the right dewll. Rule
"Dewll changes timing but timing doesn't change dwell".
Stan Wilder
Engine Ceramics
214-352-4931
www.engineceramics.com
> In a message dated 6/1/2005 10:53:37 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> Phil_Trenholme@AFFYMETRIX.COM writes:
> I just purchased a very nice fully loaded 1990 Westy. Currently showing
> 140K with over 10K in receipts spent on maintenance since 1995! Anyway,
> I am a bit of a clean freak and am considering having the transaxle and
> engine steam cleaned. Are there concerns about doing this? Are there
> better ways to clean an engine? There is quite a bit of gunk on the
> engine and having the engine clean will makes working on this car so
> much easier.
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Phil T
>
> Santa Cruz, CA
