Ben, While ur at it grind the end off the tabs on the tin that the exhaust bolts go thru so it is in open "U" instead of a closed "O". That way, the next time u need to remove the tin all u have to do is loosen the exhaust bolt and slide the tin out. Place a washer over the "U" when reassembling. Millo -----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com]On Behalf Of Ken Lewis Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2005 7:19 AM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Re: how to remove driver's side "engine tin" pushrod cover
Ben, Your trepidation is well warranted. The archives are filled with tales of woe about broken off exhaust studs. Since you were able to partly back out a stud I would then soak it with a penetrating oil and screw it back in. Gently repeat until it is out. Find a parts store, preferably that has a lot of air cooled VW stuff, and purchase some new studs and 12mm _copper_ exhaust nuts. The air cooled engines use the same size as the WBX. These are easier to remove the next time since they do not rust. Also pick up a tube of anti-seize compound. Home Depot also carries some metric hardware. As a last resort you may have to buy bolts and cut off the heads. I do not recommend using bolts here simply because you do not know if it is threaded all the way in. With studs you know you are using all the threads (in the head) since it bottoms out. In the past I used a bolt, only to find it missing, along with half the threads in the head! Also pick up an installation kit for oil gauges plus metric adapters. This kit contains the tiny nylon tubing. I added some protection by sliding pieces of fuel line over it in ares that might chafe. I mounted the sender near the coil using two existing holes and a "U" clamp used in TV antenna work. I retained the original low pressure switch by adding a tee. There are some picture at http://neksiwel.20m.com/ . Good Luck Ken Lewis |
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