Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2005 09:33:57 -0700
Reply-To: John Bange <jbange@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: John Bange <jbange@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: More AC woes...
In-Reply-To: <000901c58c33$42bf6f30$6401a8c0@noner4688xfd1h>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
> In many cases a re-grounding routine can solve some of the problems.
> I found that I needed an extra quality ground lead attached to my engine
> case on my 83 Westy for everything to function properly. The extra ground
> made the engine start faster and the starter turn faster.
> On my 66 Westy it required several new and additional frame to body ground
> wires to get the headlights, turn signals up to full bright.
My recommendation is an 8ga "ground bus" of stranded copper from grill
to dash ground point to batteries to engine compartment to starter,
with 10ga "branches" from those locations to the headlights, fans,
ECU, AFM, alternator, and the various body ground terminals in
between. OK, that's probably overkill; but it's not a bad idea to run
SOMETHING, like maybe a length of #10, from the battery to the
alternator to the largest collection of grounds in the engine
compartment. And to the headlights maybe. And maybe the starter. And
the ECU and AFM, just to be sure. ARGH! I am incapable of formulating
a moderate recommendation!
> Injection and CO sensor false readings or faulty input.
> The Bentley's manual specifically states that on the Porsche 911 in years 87
> and up it absolutely requires a minimum voltage to make the Engine
> Management system function properly.
> Small thing but in the broader scheme of things you have to remember that
> Vanagons always had some sort of Port Of Entry or Add on Air system that
> wasn't quite up to par when it was new from the father land.
>
> Stan Wilder
> Engine Ceramics
> 214-352-4931
> www.engineceramics.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Keith Ovregaard" <kovregaard@COMCAST.NET>
> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
> Sent: Tuesday, July 19, 2005 12:31 AM
> Subject: Re: More AC woes...
>
>
> > I think you are right about that. It must be the typical voltage for
> > vanagons because my 90 Syncro also is putting out 13.8V at the alt.
> > under load. I'll have to check the neg terminal vs chassis gnd to see
> > if there is a difference there, too. Not too happy to hear about the
> > undersized wiring to the alt., but the batteries have always charged up
> > OK until the AC was used. The 2 deep cycle batteries are both wired to
> > a marine battery switch (A/B or A&B) using #6 wire, I believe (same
> > size as the original battery cables). Usually I have them running
> > tandem so that both are charged/discharged equally, except when I am
> > camping, then I choose one battery (either left or right, does not
> > matter). Has been working great for 10 years. I keep an onboard trickle
> > charger plugged in most of the time and the solar takes over when I am
> > camping. Batteries have usually lasted 4-5 years and one is at or near
> > that limit. Probable sucking energy from the other battery. I should
> > probably switch to one or the other (instead of both) to see if they
> > are performing equally. If one battery is failing, it makes sense what
> > happened.
> >
> > Keith
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > On Jul 18, 2005, at 3:40 PM, mark drillock wrote:
> >
> > > Yes, that is a normal voltage for a Vanagon alternator and yes other
> > > brand vehicles often are higher. The real question is what voltage is
> > > the battery or batteries seeing under load? Measure with the probes
> > > touching right into the center of the battery posts. Then move the neg
> > > probe to chassis ground to see if the voltage stays the same or
> > > increases to indicate a weak battery ground connection. The charging
> > > current uses the ground as well as the plus. If you have the stock 84
> > > charging wires they may be degraded. I have seen a lot of these with
> > > signs of melting or burning. VW changed to a beefer wiring scheme for
> > > the same size alternator in later years to correct this problem. In
> > > 86+ models they ran a separate large wire from the alternator straight
> > > to the AC unit so the heavy current needed by the AC would not have
> > > much impact on the rest of the vehicle. If they did not do that in 84
> > > you might consider doing that also.
> > >
> > > I don't know how you have your deep cycle batteries wired in but you
> > > should really run a separate #8 wire directly from the alternator
> > > output stud to the aux batteries if you want full charging. Proper
> > > size relay and fuses of course should be used.
> > >
> > > Mark
> > >
> > >
> > > Keith Ovregaard wrote:
> > >
> > >> ...... Sounds like the regulator is not putting out
> > >> enough juice, so I checked it and got only 13.7V under load
> > >> (headlights
> > >> on) and the readout on the charger indicated "0" for alternator
> > >> output.
> > >> The voltage from the alt. has always been kind of low compared to my
> > >> Subaru (14.1V) and I have heard of other Vanagon owners that they have
> > >> also noticed low voltage.
> > >>
> > >> Anybody got a modification fix or any ideas? Is this a "normal"
> > >> voltage
> > >> for Vanagon alternators?
> > >>
> > >> Thanks!
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> Keith Ovregaard
> > >> 84 Westy "Brownie" Solar Charged Camper
> > >> 90 Westy Syncro
> > >>
> > >
>
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