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Date:         Wed, 20 Jul 2005 10:49:34 -0500
Reply-To:     J Roth <rbluewesty@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         J Roth <rbluewesty@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: how to remove driver's side "engine tin" pushrod cover
In-Reply-To:  <1121869116.42de5d3d007a3@webmail.allvantage.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

I would also add that once you do get the bolt out and remove the cover, do yourself a favor and cut the cover so that hole where this bolt goes through becomes a hook instead (saw this suggestions on somebody's website - don't remember who). This way once you remove the easy-to-reach- rear bolt holding the cover, you only need to loosen and not remove the troublesome bolt on the exhaust in the future.

In *V*olkswagen *W*esty Love, Light, & Laughter, Jay '87 Westy Springfield, Missouri

Ken Lewis wrote:

>Ben, > Your trepidation is well warranted. The archives are filled with tales of woe >about broken off exhaust studs. Since you were able to partly back out a stud I >would then soak it with a penetrating oil and screw it back in. Gently repeat >until it is out. > Find a parts store, preferably that has a lot of air cooled VW stuff, and >purchase some new studs and 12mm _copper_ exhaust nuts. The air cooled >engines use the same size as the WBX. These are easier to remove the next time >since they do not rust. Also pick up a tube of anti-seize compound. Home Depot >also carries some metric hardware. As a last resort you may have to buy bolts >and cut off the heads. > I do not recommend using bolts here simply because you do not know if it is >threaded all the way in. With studs you know you are using all the threads (in >the head) since it bottoms out. In the past I used a bolt, only to find it >missing, along with half the threads in the head! > Also pick up an installation kit for oil gauges plus metric adapters. This kit >contains the tiny nylon tubing. I added some protection by sliding pieces of >fuel line over it in ares that might chafe. I mounted the sender near the coil >using two existing holes and a "U" clamp used in TV antenna work. > I retained the original low pressure switch by adding a tee. There are some >picture at http://neksiwel.20m.com/ . > >Good Luck >Ken Lewis > > >

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