Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2005 10:16:37 EDT
Reply-To: Trvlr2001@AOL.COM
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: John Carpenter <Trvlr2001@AOL.COM>
Subject: MexiCali Rose in Oaxaca or,
what ever happened to Phaedra ? :o) read on, read on
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In a message dated 2/19/2004 1:52:43 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
psavage@MEXCONNECT.COM writes:
Greetings from Oaxaca City, Oaxaca Mexico!
The MexiCali Rose--with fresh fuel filter and new spark plugs--valiantly
pulled miles and miles of steep grades and high-altitude switchbacks between
Guadalajara and Oaxaca. Not once did her engine overheat. About a month ago we
arrived San Felipe del Agua, a small town on a mountainside overlooking
Oaxaca City.
Oaxaca City, the elegant state capitol, at 1550 meters altitude and a
population of 255,000 people lies in the heart of the Valles Centrales--an arid,
rocky region--where the Sierra Madre del Sur converges with the Sierra Madre de
Oaxaca.
I am happily camped on the mountainside property of an American expat who
owns a mescal distillery; ¨Scorpion¨ is his brand and each bottle contains a
real scorpion. I`ve tried Doug´s mescal and have to admit it stings going
down! The MexiCali Rose is hunkered down in a big field of blue agave. To the
north and very close by, rugged green mountain peaks form a dramatic
backdrop--with panoramic views over the city to east, south, and west. Sunsets and
sunrises are spectacular during this warm, dry season. Later, in summer, the
mountainsides and valleys will be covered in a profusion of green grass,
wildflowers, and blooming cactus. But now, during winter, it is bone dry.
It is (relatively) quiet her, for this IS Mexico! But every night my sleep
is disturbed by howling, yowling, growling, barking, snarling packs of
thin-ribbed roaming dog packs. This is nothing compared to the racket the burros
make--bringing to mind bull elephants in rut. And water is in short supply
during the dry season, but we make do. I wash my clothes in buckets with the
aid of my indispensable Mexican toilet plunger.
Oaxaca´s population includes 15 indigenous groups--each with its own
language (tho most speak some Spanish). Pre-Hispanic culture reached great
heights--rivaling those of central Mexico. The Zapotecs, ruling from their
magnificent hilltop city of Monte Alban, controlled much of Oaxaca by conquest,
peaking between 500 and 700 AD. Today Oaxaca´s indigenous peoples are the driving
force behind the state´s fine handicrafts and booming art scene.
The state of Oaxaca has spectacularly varied landscapes and biodiversity
exceeding any other Mexican state. Besides it´s rocky, arid regions, cloud
forests and huge stands of pine and oak gown in the highlands--while lower lying
areas and Pacific-facing slopes support deciduous tropical forest.
In several days I depart for Oaxaca´s Pacific coast, where I will share a
beach house with friends from NY. For two weeks we will snorkel the coral
reefs off the many delightful little palm-fringed bays along the coast from
Huatulco to Mazunte. There´s bound to be good fresh seafood and cold cerveza for
a song under the palapa roofs of the little beachside restaurants. Oh, I am
ready for this!
While here in Oaxaca´s Valles Centrales I´ve visited many of the Indian
markets and villages in search of fine handicrafts of the region. The work of
the weavers from the village of Teotitlan si world famous and, after much time
spent visiting the homes of many of the weaving families, have bought a
gorgeous big alpaca rug woven in the classic geometric designs of the region.
My Mishap: A week ago, while visiting the ruins of the temples of the
ancient city of Mitla, I suffered injuries when, just as I was about to descend a
steep stone staircase, I was bumped hard by someone's backpack and sent
hurtling into space. I careened, off-balance and wrenching my body violently in an
effort to regain my footing. Finally, I fell hard, face down at the bottom
of the stone steps. No bones were broken, but my wrist is sprained.
The worst of the pain came the next day, when my back and neck went to into
spasms and it was too painful to walk. Fortunately, I was directed to a
wonderful physical-therapist who discovered I´d whacked my hip out of it´s
joint, among other things. She put me back together with a combination of
traction, acupressure massage, and ultra sound treatments. Today I hiked down the
mountainside into town with no trouble, tho my arm and elbow bruises have now
turned a gruesome shade of green. But I feel almost good as new and ready to
hit the beach!
By the way, I´ve met quite a few Westies in Mexico this winter. In fact,
David and Linda arrived to camp today in their ´85 Westie from Wisconsin. I´ve
seen more Westies this year than any year previous, so if any of you are
dreaming about ´doing´ Mexico: ĦAndele! Do it!
I´ll try to report from the Oaxaca coast snorkeling adventure, if I can
manage to loose my grip on that bottle of ice cold cerveza, that is.
Best wishes to all you, especially my old List friends, if any of you are
still out there...
I have my Vanagon List subscription set NO MAIL while traveling, so if you
care to drop a line use my travel email address: psavage@mexconnect.com
Phaedra & MexiCali Rose
´85 Wolfsburg Westie
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