Date:         Tue, 13 Sep 2005 09:52:25 -0500
Reply-To:     John Rodgers <inua@CHARTER.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         John Rodgers <inua@CHARTER.NET>
Subject:      Re: Advice on possible engine replacement
Comments: To: Sam Stone <svs3@SBCGLOBAL.NET>
In-Reply-To:  <4326D1BD.9090300@sbcglobal.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Sam Stone wrote:

> Just a quick update. The Westy is at a second shop for a second opinion.
> The first mechanic reported the compression and leak down results:
> #1 120 psi 10% (source unknown)
> #3 80 psi 15% (exhuast vavle)
> #2 170 psi
> #4 180 psi
>
> It will be interesting to see what the second mechanic finds/recommends.
> Second opinions can sometime be very illuminating. The engine seems
> about as strong as I expected in a seat of the pants way. The engine
> does have 131k so the fact that it would need a little (or alot) of TLC
> shounldn't be a big suprise. I'll see.
>
> Sam
>
>
Sam,  when I was an aircraft mechanic in the bad old days, we would
often get at least temporary relief for a leaky valve, particularly an
exhaust valve by performing a procedure known as "staking the valve" .

Basically "staking" consisted of nothing more than (1) moving the rocker
for the valve for access and (2)  putting a block of oak or other
hardwood against the end of the valve stem, and giving it (the block of
wood) a good hard whack with a heavy ball peen hammer. This would snap
the valve open momentarily, then it would "slam" shut - not move
smoothly to a closed position as with valve train operation. If there
was any crust, corrosion, debris, etc, on the valve face or seat, this
tended to crush the material and remove it so the valve would seat
properly again. Sometimes worked, sometimes didn't. . But it may be
worth a try on your vehicle before tearing into it for a valve job.

Regards,

John Rodgers
88 GL Driver