Date:         Fri, 21 Oct 2005 10:39:54 -0500
Reply-To:     Jim Felder <felder@KNOLOGY.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Jim Felder <felder@KNOLOGY.NET>
Subject:      Re: Power Steering Rack Rebuild
In-Reply-To:  <4359063B.7080403@charter.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed

John,

You are talking about a van with PS, aren't you?

I didn't encounter the need for any special wrench (that I recall)
except that a 22mm came in handy to get the larger of the two hydraulic
lines off.

It's not all that uncomfortable, either. Drop the spare wheel and put a
pillow in a plastic bag and work with your back on the ramp of the
lowered wheel housing.

Just make sure you keep left and right stuff separated when on the
workbench. I have a feeling that the volks who get goofy alignment
after doing this job are getting something swapped around.

  Buy a rebuild, don't try to do that part yourself. Be sure to NOT
throw out the rubber bellows end plug with the old bellows, you'll need
them for the new bellows as they don't come with the end plugs unless
you order them. And they are not likely to be damaged.

Getting the steering shaft back in exactly right (it has a machined
groove for the bolt to go past it) as it only goes one way was about
the most difficult part, and it wasn't that bad. Getting the rack in
and out is just simple wrenching.

Someone linked to a good set of instructions the other day, look for
those and think about it... you'll be done in five hours or so.

Jim


On Oct 21, 2005, at 10:16 AM, John Rodgers wrote:

> I need to do something the leaking power steering rack on my  '88 GL.
>
> What would you do? Replace or overhaul yourself.
>
> I'm considering overhauling  it myself - I'm pretty fair with
> mechanical
> things - but from past experience on my  '85 GL, I know there is a
> threaded locking ring that must be removed. On the '85 GL removing that
> ring without the specific wrench made for the job, proved to be a
> nightmare. Succeeded in breaking the ring, and wound up having to take
> it to a machine shop and have it welded, then machined back into
> tolerance. What a PITA!!!  Cost me 50 bucks, and I got a deal because I
> knew the machinist. But it worked. The rest wasn't that difficult.
>
> But all that was along time ago way up north.. These days I have less
> time, fewer tools, etc. So, just wondering what the List suggests. I
> sorta would like to give it a go, but absolutely not unless I can get
> that proper wrench for the locking ring from someplace. I have done a
> lot of shadetree stuff, but  I learned a long time ago that the right
> tool for the right job is the only way to go - even if it's a tool you
> make specifically for that job. Never use a knife for a scredriver or a
> screw driver for a chisel, etc.
>
> What say you, Volks? (think VaG will get me for using the term?)
>
> TIA
>
> Regards,
>
> John Rodgers
> 88 GL Driver
>