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Date:         Tue, 25 Oct 2005 09:34:53 -0400
Reply-To:     dhaynes@OPTONLINE.NET
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Dennis Haynes <dhaynes@OPTONLINE.NET>
Subject:      Re: 758227.jpg
Comments: To: TJ Hannink <tjhannink@YAHOO.COM>
In-Reply-To:  <20051025131337.12879.qmail@web60320.mail.yahoo.com>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

The factory wiring actually does a very poor job of supporting even stock lights. The current flow from the alternator through undersized wiring to the battery, then to the fuse box, ignition switch, headlight switch, back to the fuse box for each filament makes for a lot voltage drop. The bad headlight grounding makes things even worse. Typical voltage at the lights can be as low as 10.5 volts with the hi-beams on. Not good for lighting. Putting 4 100 watt lamps on that circuit will fry the headlight switch and ignition switch in short order. At this point, almost half the alternator capacity is used for lighting. Add the radiator fan on high speed with the AC or heater fans in winter and you have some issues here.

To get the most out of lighting, the wiring from the alternator to the fuse box needs upgrading. Then the relays should be added to get that connection directly to the lamps.The factory uses individual fuses for each filament so that if one shorts out, the fuse blows and the remaining head lamp stays lighted. American cars do not use separate fuses. They use a self reseting circuit breaker which creates the flashing light syndrome when a lamp shorts out. The next step to brighter lights is to shorten the ground wires tot he lights. Connect them directly to the sheet metal near the headlight mountings. Of course the real problem Vanagon lights is the optics. Brighter bulbs really only give you more bad light.

Dennis

Personally, I do not think 100 watt lamps are a good choice.

----- Original Message ----- From: TJ Hannink <tjhannink@YAHOO.COM> Date: Tuesday, October 25, 2005 9:13 am Subject: Re: 758227.jpg

> In regard to installing optional higher wattage lamps, isn't the > purpose of the relay to remove the headlight current from the > headlight switch? How would the installation of higher wattage > bulbs affect the headlight switch? > > Is the stock wiring harness sized for 20-amps of current draw? Can > you safely install higher amperage fuses in the headlight circuits > without melting down the wiring, fuse block or bulb connector? It > was my understanding that circuits are fused to protect the > wiring, not to protect the device. > > Good luck, > > Tim > > > > > Robert Cardo <rrecardo@WEBTV.NET> wrote: > <55 watt bulbs? Wouldn't one carry enough current for both lights? I > think they are fused at 10-amps each, the most current that relay > wouldever see is 20-amps with the stock bulbs.>> > > > > I think this set up gives you the option to go to higher wattage > headlamps ( 80/100 ) without suffering any switch failure > consequences. > The fuse's can be changed to 20 amps each to handle the bigger > lightingload pretty easy. > > > TJ Hannink > Goldibox - 1987 Vanagon Camper, Wolfsburg Edition > 1981 Bluebird Wanderlodge, FC-33 > Winter Park, Florida > http://home.earthlink.net/~tjhannink/ > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/wolfsburg_campers > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/FC_wanderlodge > FAVOR website: http://home.earthlink.net/~clubvanagon > > --------------------------------- > Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click. >


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