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Date:         Tue, 25 Oct 2005 21:53:26 +0200
Reply-To:     Raimund Feussner <rfeussner@GMX.DE>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Raimund Feussner <rfeussner@GMX.DE>
Subject:      Re: 758227.jpg
Comments: To: TJ Hannink <tjhannink@YAHOO.COM>
In-Reply-To:  <20051025193229.72775.qmail@web60316.mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

No idea for the relay setup here, but the high beam current runs through the turn signal switch / dimmer which also melts. I would think, two relays for the low-beam (and eventually two additional ones for the high-beam). Why 30A-relays? Because you can hardly find relays with less than 30A?!

In Germany we donīt have to have the relays with our E-code lights, but most relay-users install four relays (2 low, 2 high)

Raimund

TJ Hannink schrieb:

>>From what I read in the installation instructions, there is one relay for each low beam headlight but maybe one of the vendors can enlighten :>) us further. > >In the Bentley, the low-beam headlight wiring is a single wire from the fuse block, through the ignition switch and to the headlight switch. It splits into two separate circuits once it leaves the back of the headlight switch before going to the dimmer switch and fuseblock, then to the headlights. The relay instructions call for cutting the wires in the steering column; there should be a wire for each headlamp at that point. > >So that brings me back to my original question - why do you need two 30-amp relays to switch two 55-watt (or 80-watt for that matter) bulbs? > >AFAIK, the high beam current doesn't ever go throught the headlight switch, adding an additional set of relay contacts doesn't make any sense. > >Tim > > >Jon Brown <jbrown510@gmail.com> wrote: >One is for high beam, one is for low beam. In the stock setup the current >must run through the crappy, thin, corroded wiring INSIDE the switch on it's >way to the headlights, the relay provides an alternative higher gauge/lower >resistance path effectively reduce the voltage drop (due to the resistance >in the dash switch) and resulting in brighter headlights. > >It works... it's easy... > >Don't buy from people who deceptively advertise on the list or belong to the >list under phony names... I certinaly wouldn't trust someone like that >especially when there are reliable and known trustworthy places like >VolksCafe to buy them from: >http://www.van-cafe.com/vanagonparts.jsp?pa=p&p=1267852675 >or Frank Condelli who has been selling these things as a kit for years: >http://members.aol.com/Fkc43/hdltrela.htm > > > > > > > > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "TJ Hannink" >To: >Sent: Tuesday, October 25, 2005 5:31 AM >Subject: Re: [VANAGON] 758227.jpg > > > > >>Just curious, why do you need two 30-amp relays to switch power to two 55 >> >> >watt bulbs? Wouldn't one carry enough current for both lights? I think they >are fused at 10-amps each, the most current that relay would ever see is >20-amps with the stock bulbs. > > >>Just wondering. >> >>Tim >> >>Robert Cardo wrote: >>Looks like this relay kit over on the Samba.com, has the fuse box >>holder's, and it sure looks like they are factory VW relays. >> >>All wired up, the wires are all marked and has the wire ties included >>too. >> >>Looks like a nice complete pre-assembled set up, and all this for just >>$37.00 ?? >> >>A guy could hardly beat this deal. >> >>http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/pix/758227.jpg >> >> >>--------------------------------- >>Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click. >> >> > > > >--------------------------------- > Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click. > > > > >


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