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Date:         Mon, 7 Nov 2005 14:56:10 -0800
Reply-To:     Markus Mumper <mumper@USA.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Markus Mumper <mumper@USA.NET>
Subject:      Baja Suggestions
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

>I will be heading to Baja California this December: 2 Syncro Westys, 4 adults, 4 kids, 1 dog, and 30 days to spend relaxing once we get there!

Thinking of heading south down the inside of the peninsula and then back north on the Pacific side.

Any suggestions on places to camp (the more remote and isolated the better!), on things not to miss, and on things that would be better off missed?

Thanks in advance. Any and all suggestions are welcome.<

My wife and I and some friends went about half way down the Peninsula to San Ignacio this last Spring to pet (yes - pet) some whales. Had a great time.

On the way down we went from San Diego to San Ignacio in one day - about 500 miles. The Girl ('87 Westy on GoWesty 15" rims and Michelin tires) did just fine.

Some suggestions:

1. Do not plan on driving you Syncros on the terrible washboard roads. The roads are not so much rutted or difficult to drive - they are just incredibly "washboarded". When we left the highway to go to San Ignacio Bay we loaded up into our friends one year old Ford F150 King Cab four wheel drive. Even with the tires at about 20 psi the road beat the heck out of the truck. The "Check Engine" light came on about half way through the drive to the Bay and remained on through the remainder of the trip. Also, the power steering has since been making a cat's "meow" type noise. The truck got beat up. The locals at the San Ignacio B & B (Canadian owners) warned us not to take The Girl and I think they were right - not a drive for an 18 year old vehicle you want to keep.

2. Do not drive at night. Between the crazy Gringos who want to make it to Cabo in one day and the Mexican 18 Wheelers who have been driving for 12 hours straight - it's just not the time and place to be.

3. When an 18 Wheeler is approaching from the other direction at about 70 mph on the seemingly 16' wide road plan on steering straight into the truck just as it passes or you will be blown off the road.

4. The military checkpoints are no big deal although you may be asked for batteries or other goods from the seemingly 16 year old but friendly Mexican Army soldier with an M16.

5. San Quintine, north of San Ignaicio, is an incredibly beautiful place with some side roads off the main highway that are great for camping.

6. If going to the cave paintings (it's not really a cave but an overhang) south of San Ignaicio you probably should rent a cab. The dirt road to the trailhead takes about an hour and is again very washboardy. To get passes to go to the paintings go to the Mission in San Ignacio and look for a doorway about 4' tall, inside you may find a very nice man who speaks not a lick of English. There is no sign above the door, you need to find it by pure will and luck. You must hire a guide to take you to the paintings (the nice non English speaking man will help you), do not make the mistake that we did and just offer him string cheese and water (it pissed him off but that's all we had anyway), I guess you are supposed to give him a decent meal.

7. It's a lot of fun to purchase "beyinas" or "whales" in Spanish. These are (I think, at least they are big) one litre bottles of beer. You look realy cool walking around drinking these things, and your having a lot of fun. It's funny, in Mexico (I've been about a dozen times) you never seem to get drunk, you can start drinking beer at ten in the morning and drink all day and you just have a nice buzz going all day. I don't drink tequilla, the situation might be different if you do.

8. Lastly, the roads commonly do not have a shoulder but a steep gutter. If you get into one of those it's bad news - stay attentive.

That's all I can think of for now - have a great time, the Peninsula is a beautiful place, the food is usually good and the people are very friendly.

Oops - lastly, when between the turn off for Bahia de los Angeles and San Quintin look for the Boojum trees. These are succulents that can be 60' tall - they consist of one white, tapered trunk with small and short branches sticking out from them with leaves about 1/2" long. Bizzare life form. We have one growing in our front yard. The only other relative of them is the Ocotillo in Arizona and Mexicao.

Let us know how your trip went - god speed.

Markus and Maggie with The Girl ('87 Westy) that never stops running.


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