Date:         Sun, 13 Nov 2005 08:19:01 -0700
Reply-To:     Charlie Partin <charliepartin@EARTHLINK.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Charlie Partin <charliepartin@EARTHLINK.NET>
Subject:      Re: fuel tank crossover...
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

----- Original Message -----
From: "Timothy Hannink" <tjhannink@YAHOO.COM>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Thursday, August 29, 2002 3:10 PM
Subject: Re: fuel tank crossover...


> I had posted the following in the Wolfsburg Camper
> group in the file section and thought I had posted to
> the list also.
>
>
> If you are getting a fuel smell after filling up your
> Vanagons fuel tank, or if you want to drop the fuel
> tank, you might want to read the following:
>
> If the crossover tube is just cracked, it can be
> replaced without dropping the fuel tank. The beginning
> steps are the same for either task, if you find the
> crossover tube was the problem you can just replace it
> (around $27.00 from VW).
>
> I jacked the front of the van up as far as my 3 ton
> jack will lift it (about a foot) and put jackstands
> under the front jackpoints.
>
> Then I removed both front tires/wheels.
>
> Disconnect the 5mm fuel lines that connect the
> cross-over tube to the vapor recovery tanks in the
> wheelwell. (they should be on the front nipples on
> both sides). Find a good pair of diagonal cutters to
> remove the crimped on clamps, avoid twisting them or
> you could break the nipples off the tank.
>
> Reach around the front of the upper control arms and
> feel the area around where the crossover tube enters
> the tank. Use a small brush to clean any loose dirt
> from around the opening, if necessary. Pull up on the
> crossover tube fittings where they go into the tank.
> The grommets will probably come out with them.
>
> If you have some non-grit hand cleaner (GoJo white),
> put it on your forearms to keep them from getting
> scratched up. I use the same stuff to clean all the
> parts since it doesn't require water to clean. I also
> use it to lubricate all of the grommets and rubber
> hoses.
>
> There is a one-hole strap that holds the cross-over
> tube to the body above the tank. I used a long flat
> blade screwdriver to bend that down and slip the tube
> out under it.
>
> Tie a string to the right side hose that was connected
> to the vapor recovery tank and pull the cross-over
> tube out of the drivers side wheelwell.
>
> If you find that the cross-over tube is cracked,
> usually at the junction right above where it enters
> the tank, you can replace it now.
>
> Clean and re-install the grommets. Use the string to
> pull the new crossover tube in place. Reconnect the
> vent lines to the vapor recovery tanks.
>
> If you decide you still need to drop the tank, remove
> the other set of 5mm lines to the vapor recovery tank
> and the fill/vent line from the right side.
>
> I used a syphon hose to remove any excess fuel from
> the tank through the fill hole. Then I removed the
> fuel line between the tank and the fuel pump, and used
> a pan to catch the small amount of fuel that comes out
> of the tank and pump. Jump over to the left side of
> the van to remove the return line at the bottom rear
> of the tank.
>
> I used my 3 ton floor jack with a 12" x 12" x 3/4"
> piece of plywood centered on the circular protrusion
> on the bottom of the tank and raised the jack until it
> was snug.
>
> Then you can loosen the tank straps and begin lowering
> the tank slowly. I had to bend the rear of the straps
> slightly to get them out of the holes in the frame.
>
> The back of the tank needs to come down first so you
> can clear the lip on the frame with the front flange
> on the tank.
>
> Once I got the tank out, I tilted it up so the fill
> hole is near the bottom and syphoned the remaining
> fuel out of the tank.
>
> Then its just a matter of removing and replacing the
> vent lines and re-installing the grommets using plenty
> of lubricant.
>
> Its easiest to hang the crossover tube from the
> chassis by the 1-hole strap without the tank in place.
> Use the string to route it around the various hoses
> and cables properly. Once you reposition the tank and
> raise it up, everything can be plugged back in.
>
> If you chose to remove the fuel sender, you might want
> to pick up an o-ring for that fitting. Make sure that
> you clean all of the dirt from around the sender
> opening before you open it, it opens by twisting it
> counter-clockwise about 1/16 of a turn. I was able to
> save my o-ring by cleaning it in the GoJo hand
> cleaner.
>
> You don't need to remove the vapor recovery tanks in
> the wheelwells but it does make it easier to cut off
> the crimped on hose clamps. There are some valves on
> top of those tanks that are plumbed back to the
> charcoal canister in the right rear wheelwell with a
> plastic type hose. Mine were in good shape except for
> the grommets that fit in the top of the tank. They are
> available at VW (P/N N90105501) for around $7.62 each.
>
> Ken at Van-again has a kit for replacing the vent
> lines, cross-over tubes and grommets (doesn't include
> the vapor tank grommets) on his website
> (www.vanagain.com) for around $70.00.
>
> I reused all of the grommets since they were in good
> shape. I also use shrink tubing on the ends of all of
> the fuel lines to keep the braided cover from fraying.
> I got the 5mm fuel line from my local VW parts store
> for around $1.25/ft, they also had the 1' piece of
> large fuel line that runs between the tank and the
> pump. You will also need a 6" piece of 7mm fuel line
> for the return side.
>
> I use nylon cable ties instead of hose clamps on all
> of the tank connections. None of these connections is
> under pressure, so I feel safe in doing this.
>
> Good luck,
>
> Tim