Date:         Tue, 29 Nov 2005 07:16:06 -0600
Reply-To:     VWNut Hawk <vwnut@HAWKCOMPUTING.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         VWNut Hawk <vwnut@HAWKCOMPUTING.COM>
Subject:      Re: changing auto transmission
Comments: To: al sinclair <alvanagon@GMAIL.COM>
In-Reply-To:  <b336b14e0511282226m1f184f4eu52c9b08d1dcfe827@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

Hi. look for answers in CAPS

>>> al sinclair <alvanagon@GMAIL.COM> 11/29/2005 12:26:16 am >>>
Dave, John, Bill & Robert -- many thanks for all the info!  And the archive
Robert Fisher / Craig Oda messages are very helpful too (I'll build a cradle
for the tranny to bolt to the jack.).

 Now getting down to specifics for removing some more of my ignorance:

- if I use a 2x4 across the top of the engine bay plus rope (chain?) to hold
up the engine, around what part of the engine does the rope go?
IF YOUR EXHAUST IS IN GOOD SHAPE, PUT THE CHAIN BETWEEN THE EXHAUST PIPES SO
THE CHAIN CAN'T SLIDE OUT AWAY FROM THE ENGINE. PUT IT CLOSE TO THE BELL HOUSING BUT
ON THE INSIDE OF THE EXHAUST.  THE BENTLEY MANUAL SHOWS A VW TOOL TO
DO THIS I THINK.


- I've read that the vehicle should be jacked at the frame crossmembers in
front of the lower rear trailing arms, but where should the axle stands be
placed?  Actually, I plan to build solid wood supports using stacked 4x4s,
but the question is the same -- what part of the bus will sit on the wood,
assuming the wheels are off?  Or should I leave the wheels on so they can
sit on the wood stands?

YOU WILL WANT THE WHEELS ABLE TO MOVE SO LEAVE THEM ON AND JACK
UP THE VAN ON THE OUTER ARM BOLT AREA.  THIS WILL LEAVE ACCESS
TO THE BODY FRAME FOR THE JACK STAND.

- under the vehicle floor right above the tranny there's some kind of
subfloor, probably soundproofing, which is coming loose.  It's pretty oily.
Is there a way to reattach / re-stick it?
I'VE NEVER SEEN THAT BEFORE.

- one of the outer CVs seems to have a bust boot, so I'll probably replace
the entire CV joint+boot.  It seems this would best be done at the same time
as doing the tranny, but maybe I'm missing something -- is it better done
when the tranny is in place?  The other joints look ok.  Is it ok to replace
only one?
THIS IS THE PERFECT TIME TO CHANGE IT.  TAKE BOTH OFF.  THEY ARE DIFFERENT LENGTHS 
ON AUTO'S AND THE SAME LENGTH ON MANUALS.
YOU WILL NEED EITHER A 12 POINT TORQUE BIT OR A ALLEN WRENCH. IN EITHER
CASE YOU WILL NEED TO USE A PICK AND CLEAN THE HOLES OUT COMPLETELY SO 
THAT THE BIT FITS ALL THE WAY DOWN.  YOU DON'T WANT TO STRIP THOSE 
BOLTS.  IF YOU DO, IT IS POSSIBLE TO GET THE BOLT OFF BUT YOU WILL
PROBABLY NEED A ANGLE GRINDER.


thanks again
Al

On 11/25/05, David Yates <dyates1@bigpond.net.au> wrote:
>
> Alan,
> That SHOULD have read "raise the rear of the car"
> Dave
>