Date: Thu, 1 Dec 2005 17:44:48 -0600
Reply-To: John Rodgers <inua@CHARTER.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: John Rodgers <inua@CHARTER.NET>
Subject: Re: sucks in snow!
In-Reply-To: <f62fa3205033.438ef57c@gci.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Another trick is to add some weight. Build (or have built) a box and
carry a load of sand in it just in fron of the rear seat. Or, better
yet, build a box the is the size of the floor between the rear and front
seat, the width of the van. Use a 2X4 for the sides of the box, plywood
on the bottom, and have a plywood lid. Fill the box with sand. Limiting
the height of the box to that of a 2X4 width, allows you to keep the
most use of your floor. If the lid is hinged, then you have plenty of
sand for slick spots as well as the weight to help the tires get a bite
on the surface they sit on.
Regards,
John Rodgers
88 GL Driver
Mark Tuovinen wrote:
>Cindy,
>
>If you are going to be driving in snow on a regular basis then invest in some good tires. I highly recommend Nokian Hakkapeliita C2 tires, especially for those that are not allowed to use studs. I have driven a number of different vehicles over the years with nonstudded tires, including Blizzaks, Arctic Alpins, NRW's, and many brands of studded tires as well. Studded tires beat nonstudded tires everytime, but if you can't legally run them then the Nokians are the next best thing. The next most important item for snow and ice is the nut behind the steering wheel, a bad driver can get the best equipped vehicle stuck and a competent driver will go places on summer tires that you would think were impossible. Start by adding weight to your van over or just in front of the rear tires. I prefer it just in front of the tires as too much weight in the rear will reduce your ability to steer, just ask the sign I ran over years ago, it did not move when I honked my horn as I ran i
>t down. Further proof that both halves of the teenage brain are not connected. You also may need to plan your route and adjust your driving behavior. Chose routes that minimize or avoid hills, especially ones that you will have to stop on or at the top and/or bottom of. The area just before an intersection gets very slippery from snow being melted by the heat coming off engines, exhaust systems, and friction from tires. Because of this it may be necessary to stay to the side of the road or lane as much as possible, this keeps your tires out of the trough made by the cars in front of you and is often less slippery. On side streets or low traffic main roads you can, assuming no oncoming traffic or police in the area, either do a rolling stop or stop short of the intersection which gives you a chance for better traction and room to build momentum to get you through it. A light touch on the gas pedal is a must, spinning tires do not have traction. The more you drive in sn
>ow the better at it you will become if you think about what you are doing and how your vehicle is handling. My daily driver is a 1990 Jeep Cherokee with all-season tires, it has been in 4whl drive for no more then 1/2 a mile this winter, and most of that was just so that I would not delay other drivers while trying to cross an intersection on a hill in two wheel drive. My daily driving does not include any major hills so I do not have studs on the Jeep. My wife drives more every day so her Audi Quattro has studded Nokian Hakkapeliita's on it, I consider them to be cheap insurance.
>
>Mark in Ak since 1969
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Cindy Taykowski <JUNAMOSS@MSN.COM>
>Date: Thursday, December 1, 2005 10:48 am
>Subject: sucks in snow!
>To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>
>
>
>>Hi
>>I have heard it before. Some have no trouble in the snow. What's
>>the secret? I am completely stuck in nearly no snow. 4 inches last
>>night to be precise. I shovel, I use salt, kitty litter and well I
>>get stuck in the street.
>>help.
>>cindy
>>
>>
>>
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