http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=196150&type=store
>
They fit OK inside the connector shell, so I figure that's as good as the
real thing.
> You just
> > using the stock wiring?
>
> That was also part of my question-what do I need to do wiring wise to make
> this operation up to snuff???
Well, I reckon that kinda depends on how high your "snuff marker" is. Most
people seem to agree that the stock wiring in factory circuit configuration
is inadequate. Some report satisfaction with simply powering the stock wire
directly via relays instead of the roundabout way through the light switch,
ignition, and hi-beam switch.
In my case, with 100/80w outer bulbs in addition to those H1's, I felt this
would be running too close to the capacity of the wire so I went with four
individual 10ga wire runs straight back to two relays under the driver's
seat (12ga wire would be plenty big and you can buy it in the form of power
cord already in a convenient pair for each side>) <
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=825700&type=store
>
They're fed by an 8ga wire to the battery under the passenger seat (for an
easier time of it, you could run straight to the battery under the passenger
seat in the first place-- I went under the driver's seat because I have a
LOT of electrical wiring planned and it houses my auxiliary fuse panel).
Each of the four wires is individually protected. I used ridiculously
expensive push-pull aircraft breakers, but regular in-line fuse holders with
stadard 10A fuses is totally adequate.
The relays I used were standard 30A automotive relays:
<
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=500700&item=RLY-351&type=store
>
I used relay sockets, but you could just as easily connect directly to them
using the aforementioned female spade connectors.
To control the relays I just ran a jacketed 3 pair stranded 18ga signal
cable from behind the left front headlight to under the driver's seat
(though since you only need 2 wires, cheap lamp cord or even speaker wire
would probably suffice). I clipped off the left headlight connector and
wired one each from that 18ga bundle to the high and low beam feeds, each of
them feeding the coil on one of the relays. This was my way of taking the
easy way out, as I didn't even have to LOOK under the dash at that mess of
wiring.
For grounding you can just tie to the body via existing screws or add your
own ground points with self tapping screws. I have a 6ga "ground bus" cable
running bumper-to-bumper and tied to the frame in the engine compartment,
under the rear seat, under the driver's seat (with a side runner there going
sideways, tied to battery negative) and this is what I used to ground all my
lights up front. Really though, that's ridiculous overkill. You just need a
better ground than the stock configuration of two 1.5mm wires sharing a
female spade on a corroded ground terminal under the dash. Even a crimp-on
ring terminal under one of the headlight bucket retaining screws would be an
improvement.
As soon as I get my new Hella Ecode reflectors I'm going to be pulling the
front apart to install them. I'll try to remember to have my camera handy so
I can post some pics of my rat's nest installation.
--
John Bange
'90 Vanagon - "Geldsauger"
