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Date:         Sat, 17 Dec 2005 06:35:21 EST
Reply-To:     RAlanen@AOL.COM
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Frank Condelli <RAlanen@AOL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Bleeding Coolant on a 2.1L syncro
Comments: cc: gronski@GMAIL.COM
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"

In a message dated 16/12/2005 6:43:42 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, LISTSERV@GERRY.VANAGON.COM writes:

My heat is really poor in my 1986 2.1L syncro. I'd like to bleed the coolant can anyone point me to a good description of how to?

Chris, first off, I don't think you need to bleed your coolant system. If the van has been running fine and not overheating and you have not recently flushed and refilled your coolant system, then the coolant system is bleed of all air already. The 2.1 coolant system has a self bleeding design. That's the purpose of that tube running around the perimeter of the top of the engine compartment that has all those hoses connected to it. If you have poor heating then there are other problems. Possibly the front heater core is blocked from corrosion or the fins are blocked from dirt & debrtis. I had one I took apart last week for overhaul and the fins were completley, and I mean completley, plugged up with dirt, dust bunnies, mouse droppings, fur, you name it it was in there ! Next problem the heater vent flaps are not working properly or their seals have deteriorated. Next problem could be your thermosate is not operating properly. Next problem could be your heater coolant valve is not opening all the way. Maybe more that I can't think of so early in the morning. Now, if you still want to bleed your coolant system quickly and efficiently here is how it is done and works perfectly every time. Start the engine from cold, open the bleeder valve on the top of the thermostat housing, open the main coolant tank and while the engine is warming up add coolant until the tank is full, let the engine warm up a few minutes, have another person hold or block the throttle valve with a screwdriver so that the RPMs stay around 3000, go to the front rad where you already have removed the upper grill and have a 13 mm open end spanner ready, open the bleed bolt on the RH top of the rad, when only fluid is coming out and no air bubbles, close the bolt, fill the main coolant tank, replace the cap, reduce the idle, close the bleed valve on top of the thermostat housing and viola your done. Make sure the overflow tank is full to the MAX mark. After a couple of heating & cooling cycles the system may take on a bit more coolant and expunge any remaining air through its designed air bleeding system so check the overflow tank frequently and refill as needed.

Cheers,

Frank Condelli Almonte, Ontario, Canada '87 Westy, '90 Carat, '87 Wolfsburg (Forsale) & Lionel Trains Vanagon/Vanagon Westfalia Service in the Ottawa Valley _Frank Condelli & Associates_ (http://members.aol.com/Fkc43/busindex.html) _Vanagon Stainless Steel Exhaust Systems_ (http://members.aol.com/Fkc43/stebro.htm) _BusFusion_ (http://members.aol.com/BusFusion/bfhome.htm) a VW Camper camping event, Almonte, ON, June 08 ~ 11, 2006


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