The wires have only been bare for a day... just so I could test. Chris On 12/26/05, Al and Sue Brase <albeeee@mchsi.com> wrote: > Fuse. It may check good but is loose or partly open It probably burned out > because of the bare spot. Wires hardly ever break except at door openings or > other places where there is movement. > Al Brase > > > Christopher Gronski wrote: > The brake wire is bare 6" or so from the taillight, just before it hits this > new trailer harness. I'm probing there and grounding to the alternator. It > drops to zero once the petal is released. I'm going to try it your way > tomorrow at first light (as well as checking the switches and the junction > box). Chris On 12/25/05, mark drillock <drillock@earthlink.net> wrote: > Where exactly are you putting each of the meter probes? Does it drop to zero > volts when the pedal is released? The brake switches are doubled up for > safety. It is unlikely they would both be bad. The problem is far more > likely to be in the left taillight area or the engine compartment wiring > junction box. There are 2 round 7 pin connectors in the box. One of these > has all the wires for the rear lights. The brakelight wire is black/red > stripe. Using a straight pin, push the pin into the wire. Push through > the insulation and aim for the center where the metal is. Measure > the voltage on the pin while someone pushes the brake pedal down hard. > Put one probe on the pin and the other probe on bare metal ground in > the engine compartment. On the same round connector are 2 wires that > are grey with a stripe. These should have 12 volts when the headlight > switch is on. Push the pin into one of these to verify your test setup. If > you can't find 12 volts on one of these then you are doing something > wrong and not finding 12 volts on the brake wire won't mean > much. Mark Christopher Gronski wrote:
> Right now I'm only getting 1 volt at the brake lights with the pedal > depressed. Chris
> > > |
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