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Date:         Mon, 26 Dec 2005 11:38:45 -0500
Reply-To:     Christopher Gronski <gronski@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Christopher Gronski <gronski@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Finding and Accessing the Brake Light Switch
Comments: To: mark drillock <drillock@earthlink.net>
Comments: cc: Stan Gronski <gronskis@gmail.com>,
          "gronskis@accessv.com" <gronskis@accessv.com>
In-Reply-To:  <43AF2905.3060808@earthlink.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

OK, when testing continuity (ie: not volts) on the switches the one towards the driver seems to be functioning, it does not drop quite to zero with the pedal but very close (0.23 to 0.13). The second switch further away from the driver is not showing continuity (ie: I am gettin 1 all the time)

When I bridge the connector manually (ie: its off the switch and I'm using a copper wire with flattened ends bridging the switch) the brake lights come on without touching the petal (as expected). Both lights worked briefly but then only the passenger side bulb worked.

If I take out the brake bulb I get 12v to the socket with the brake pedal pushed and 0v with it not pressed (as expected). But If I put the bulb IN THE SOCKET I do not get brake lights, the bulb looks fine and was tested for continuity and is working. IT IS NOT THE BULB the bulb itself was working when I manually bridged the switch. Morover, WITH THE BULB IN, if I measure further back on the wire I am all of a voltage is all of sudden back to 0.5v on the brake wired (pedal down).

So I get 12v at the brake bulb sockets as long as there is no bulb in, but my voltage drops to 0.5v as soon as I put a bulb in.

The other weird thing is if I measure continuity between the brake wire and any other taillamp wire (signals, hazzards, reverse, whatever). I get continuity.

I am driving myself crazy, what is this?

Chris

P.S. I cut out ALL the trailer wiring.

On 12/25/05, mark drillock <drillock@earthlink.net> wrote: > Where exactly are you putting each of the meter probes? > Does it drop to zero volts when the pedal is released? > > The brake switches are doubled up for safety. It is unlikely they would > both be bad. The problem is far more likely to be in the left taillight > area or the engine compartment wiring junction box. There are 2 round 7 > pin connectors in the box. One of these has all the wires for the rear > lights. The brakelight wire is black/red stripe. > > Using a straight pin, push the pin into the wire. Push through the > insulation and aim for the center where the metal is. Measure the > voltage on the pin while someone pushes the brake pedal down hard. Put > one probe on the pin and the other probe on bare metal ground in the > engine compartment. On the same round connector are 2 wires that are > grey with a stripe. These should have 12 volts when the headlight switch > is on. Push the pin into one of these to verify your test setup. If you > can't find 12 volts on one of these then you are doing something wrong > and not finding 12 volts on the brake wire won't mean much. > > Mark > > Christopher Gronski wrote: > > >Right now I'm only getting 1 volt at the brake lights with the pedal depressed. > > > >Chris > > > > > > >


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