Date:         Sat, 14 Jan 2006 13:31:21 -0800
Reply-To:     Rajesh Injety <wolfvanagon@YAHOO.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Rajesh Injety <wolfvanagon@YAHOO.COM>
Subject:      Re: Power window replacement details-------very true
In-Reply-To:  <89463ad131abc0434e8de069389fe5cb@knology.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

I totally concur with Jim
  also, i can remove and re-instal my power window assembly, regulator and motor, in less than an hour.  it took me around 3 hours of disgruntled work to get to the point were i was this fast.

  -rajesh


Jim Felder <felder@KNOLOGY.NET> wrote:  This is good advice from Rajesh, the learning curve. But once you've
done it once or twice, you can get in an out in less than an hour. It's
really not all that hard a job, just that when you don't know how to
twist the motor on the cables to get the assembly to slip out, you end
up doing a lot of unneccessary tugging and pulling and scraping. The
longer you keep a vanagon, the faster you get at this.

Instead of using a clamp to hold the window up, you might try cutting a
couple of small wooden wedges to jam the window to the rubber so it
won't drop.

Here's the sequence of events, best I can remember, The only tools
you'll need besides the wedges are a phillips head screwdriver, a small
knife to pry with, a 10mm socket and a 10mm combination wrench. Maybe
something else, but basically that's it. When you get the motor out,
you'll need a good sized soldering iron to remove the short harness and
connectors from the old motor and put them on the new motor. Make a
sketch of how the wires connect to the weird little terminals on the
motor or the window might work in reverse. Ask me how I know.

First, take the small bladed knife and pop the end covers out of the
pull handle. You'll see what I mean if you look closely. Pry out the
molded-in end covers, working on the "inside" end closer to the center
of the handle, as the outside edge (adjacent to the upholstered panel)
is a plastic hinge. When pried open, the screws are revealed. Remove
them and keep them organized, they are of two different sizes.

Next go after the door latch plate. Pull up the handle and pry out the
plastic insert from the little slot at the front. This will reveal a
phillips head screw, remove this and lay the parts aside.

Next comes the vent in the lower rear corner of the panel. There are
two screws facing you when you look at the panel.

Now the panel will pop off with a tape-covered screwdriver. Try to find
a fastener and pry near it rather than in the middle between two
fasteners. When you can gaet your hand in, continue around until the
panel is loose.

Carefully remove the plastic wind seal, you will either need to
reattach or replace it with contact cement or tape.

If you have speakers, make a note of how they are connected and
disconnect them.

Unplug the window switch from the main harness and the motor. Cut any
cable ties you find fastening the motor.

The window needs to be all the way up to do the next steps easily. Now
is the time to take a look as to how they will be accomplished.

The window glass sits in a metal rail that is bolted to a mechanism
that is part of the window raiser. This part is the same for crank-up
or electric windows. The trouble is that you will need to get to the
two 10mm bolts that fasten the window to the raiser. If the window is
not all the way up, this may be your biggest challenge but since mine
isn't apart, I cant' describe the situtation further. But this is what
you have to do next.

Following that, raise the now-loose window to the top and jam or clamp
it to keep it out of the way. You will see a vertical galvanized metal
track that the raiser slides in. If I recall correctly, a bolt in the
side near the top and a bolt in the bottom of the door--yes, you have
to look underneath the edge of the door--hold this track in. Remove
these, don't confuse the bolts with the two shorter ones that hold the
window to the raiser.

The vertical track is loose, but it is connected to the motor by two
cables in housings. If the housings are broken, bent or rusted, go
ahead and order them too right now.

Now all that needs to be done is to remove the three 10mm bolts that
hold the motor in.

Once that is done, the motor can be twisted with one hand about 90
degrees to make the cables align together as the other hand moves the
vertical track, bottom first, toward the motor.

If you've done your twisting right, the whole thing will slide out the
motor hole. When the motor is released, the whole thing will spring
back to its arrangement in the car.

Two 13mm bolts hold the motor on to the mechanism. As I said, you may
have to transfer a plastic mounting collar and a short piece of harness
to the new motor, but other than that, it all twists up and slides
right back in the way it came out.

Jim


On Jan 14, 2006, at 10:12 AM, Rajesh Injety wrote:

>
>
> good luck, this can be done by-yourself. just be
> prepared to loose an hour or two, or three, or if you
> are me and some times have a very slow learning
> curve.. four hours. (and counting)
>
> hope i have not confused you
>
> Raj
> 1988 Wolfsburd Ed. GL ---- Gretchen
>
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