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Date:         Fri, 10 Feb 2006 00:31:49 -0800
Reply-To:     Robert Fisher <refisher@MCHSI.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Robert Fisher <refisher@MCHSI.COM>
Subject:      Re: How to - or not - bleed the cooling system
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
              reply-type=original

I kinda feel the same way- it's worked just fine every time I've done it by the book. I can see the thing about lifting the ass end, though, if only for the sake of being thorough. I didn't know what a banjo fitting was, but in looking at what's available I think that's the way to go for a petcock on the radiator. Looks like you could find a properly sized bolt-on, too. They have them that handle brake system pressure so it shouldn't be any problem for the coolant system. Might even find something suitable at a FLAPS. I gather these vans came with some kind of bolt with a channel in it? Mine just has a plain 'ol bolt in it- good way to wind up wearing some hot coolant, and having to clean that sticky crap off of everything, so that's one of the reasons I want to put a valve in there. It's a good thing I like tinkering with this thing.

Cya, Robert

----- Original Message ----- From: "Doug F" <vanagon@ASTOUND.NET> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM> Sent: Friday, February 10, 2006 12:00 AM Subject: Re: How to - or not - bleed the cooling system

> Why not just bleed the vanagon according to the Bentley manual suggests? > > I for one do not understand why everybody feels they need a "better" way > to > bleed the system. I do it EXACTLY the way the Bentley manual outlines and > it > works. Why challenge the engineering. How can you know that you "know" > better. How can you "know" you have established your method based upon > "better" research? You cant! Thats why I do it EXACTLY the way the book > outlines and sure its not easy but it does work. > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Al and Sue Brase" <albeeee@MCHSI.COM> > To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM> > Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 9:02 AM > Subject: Re: How to - or not - bleed the cooling system > > >> I'm following this link and have to say- I don't understand what is all >> the fuss about. One cannot fill the rear reservoir completely full. >> About half full is right, there needs to be room for expansion. The >> front (inside) bottle needs to be full all the time. but a properly >> function pressure cap and air tight hose to the expansion tank will keep >> it topped up. >> I NEVER take out the grille and bleed the radiator. Even last month when >> I put in a different engine and quite a bit of coolant was lost, I just >> filled it up at the pressure cap a couple of times, started it up and >> refilled it with the engine at operating temp and revved up to about >> 2000 (had someone else hold it there), and put on the pressure cap and >> hose before releasing Then tighten down the valve on the thermostat >> housing. >> Sure, there is a little .air in the system, but it will self bleed out >> in a few cycles. Maybe this might be a big problem with the a/c on in >> the summer if it was 100 degrees outside. But I doubt it. >> I've never owned a 1.9 gas car and they might quite possibly need more >> care than this. The same procedure works for my 82 diesel, however. >> I'll check the radiator bleed valve sometime. I realize that large >> amounts of air might not be able to get out of the radiator without >> bleeding. Maybe in our climate 1/2 a radiator is enogh to give me good >> cooling. >> Al Brase >> >> BJ Feddish wrote: >> >> >I'd like to share something that someone on this list shared with me > years >> >ago. This is done after you've done all the "jack-up-the-front" stuff > from >> >Bentley, etc. After driving the van to full temperature let it cool >> >down >> >overnight. There will be some air in the rear reservoir. Open it up and >> >fill it with coolant again. Drive it again until it's hot then let it > cool >> >overnight again. There will be more air there. Fill it back up. Keep > doing >> >this for about a week or until air stops appearing in the tank. After I > did >> >this the temp gauge is always below the led when I'm driving and when it >> >idles it only goes a hair passed the led even on hot days. The light has >> >never blinked. I'm convinced that most head problems people have are > from >> >too much air in their systems. >> > >> >Bryan >> > >> > >> >


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