Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2006 20:50:23 -0500
Reply-To: Sam Walters <sam.cooks@VERIZON.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Sam Walters <sam.cooks@VERIZON.NET>
Subject: Re: gas tank; fixing Syncro tank sender
In-Reply-To: <f611fa2a585.44047567@gci.net>
Content-type: multipart/mixed;
Mark,
Several folks say you can do the Syncro fuel sender without removing the
tank, etc. if you just go in by the left rear tire - after taking it off.
See the attached files. I will have to attack this soon also as mine
was intermittent - mostly off, and broke off when I was trying to remove
it and clean up the connections. Looks like the inside of the
connection was all rusted up.
Good luck.
Sam
--
Sam Walters
Baltimore, MD
89 Syncro GL, Zetec Inside
85 Westy Weekender
85 Mercedes Benz 300D Turbodiesel - to become veggie oil powered
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From: mark drillock <drillock@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: syncro fuel tank sending gauge hangup
The sender is a simple design, not much to go wrong. There is a plastic
float at the end of a very long thin rod arm. The other end of the rod
has a short arm on the other side of the pivot. The short arm wipes the
windings of a rheostat. The only thing that comes to mind as a cause of
your problem is the metal tabs that are bent into position to act as
limit stops for the rod arm travel. Perhaps the rod is just missing the
stop edge of the top tab and then getting wedged along the side of the
tab instead. The weight and mechanical advantage of the log end of the
rod/float is so great that I don't see how the rheostat part could be
involved.
Mark
Richard A Jones wrote:
>>Going to Syncro Safari last summer, I wanted
>>to have a full tank, so I did the "squeeze/click"
>>routine for quite a while to get the tank
>>really FULL.
>>
>>Later, I noticed that the gauge wasn't going down,
>>and indeed was stuck even "fuller" than normal--
>>a little above the full line.
>>
>> I let the tank run down, and figured some
>>of the rough roads would shake it loose. Sure enough,
>>after coming over Cinnamon Pass, I noticed in Lake
>>City that the gauge was working.
>>
>> Well, late last fall it hung up on "above
>>full" again, and wouldn't give up. I finally
>>decided to go after it and removed the charcoal
>>cannister. I was dismayed to see so many hoses
>>in the way of trying to remove the sender plate.
>>Instead, I took a piece of scrap wood and a rubber
>>mallet and tapped on the plate. Second tap and
>>"sproing" I heard the sender float arm drop. My
>>gauge is working again.
>>
>> Can anyone with a syncro sender at hand
>>see if there is some "design feature" that would
>>allow the arm to hang up (pun) in the UP position?
>>My only sender is in my tank. ;-)
>>
>> Richard A Jones
>> Bo
To replace Syncro sender:
- Jack up van and remove tire for additional work room.
- Remove charcoal canister
- Clean away dirt in the sender area
- Remove sender wires
- Lube sender nuts
- Remove nuts, if rusted remove and break off nuts.
- If studs are broken, go to home depot and buy new SS hardware and tack weld or JB weld new studs in place.
- R&R sender with new O rings in the correct position.
- Reinstall wires, canister, and tire
- Test and have cold beer.
TGIF,
Dave
