Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2006 13:39:19 -0600
Reply-To: Raceingcajun <raceingcajun47@BELLSOUTH.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Raceingcajun <raceingcajun47@BELLSOUTH.NET>
Subject: Re: brake line fix but safe
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Hi Jonce,
Your right, this is one of those Fix it right, things we been talking
about lately.
The right way of course, replace the tubing completely, connection to
connection. Using only "Seamless Steel Tubing".
I don't recommend splicing brake tubing anytime................but, if
you must.
The proper way is to find a rust free, straight, smooth, section of the
old tubing. Where you can get at it easily., and wont have to bend the new
section. You don't want any kinks.
Using a tubing cutter, not a hacksaw, cut the tubing so the end is as
close to 90" as possible.
Take a piece of emery cloth and clean the tubing back about an inch or
so, making sure no debits get into the tubing..
Slide a "Flared Male Tubing Nut" one the line, threads facing out. Now
you don't have to use Metric fittings as long as all the fitting are the
same in your splice. Metric may be hard to find in your area. Then take a
piece of the old tubing to your local "FLAPS", and match it as closely as
you can with ASE. Again metric would be best, but the splice section size
can be SAE, as long as the size is a very close match, 5/16 to 8 mm and so
on. Just remember: Brake Quality, Steel, Seamless Tubing!!!
Also you can buy ready made sections of brake tubing with the fittings
already installed. Just make sure to match the fittings all around. And that
it is Brake tubing, there is a difference!
Use a "Double Flaring Tool", to flare both the ends of the old tubing,
where you made your cut out. You may be able to rent this or borrow it at
the FLAPS. (I have a Snap-On, or Bluepoint, its a very good tool. A little
pricy for a one time job, but very easy to use and you'll have it next time.
Just follow the instructions on box closely)
Use a connecting nut (I didn't call this a UNION for a reason I'll
explain at the bottom) to attach both ends where the splice meets up with
your cutout. Attach the tubing and connector and your in business! Bleed the
brakes, check for leaks and motor on!
Now to explain. Some people use what is called, "A FULL UNION
Compression Fitting" to make tubing repairs. These fittings use a NUT, A
FERRELL, and A FULL UNION (hence the reason I didn't use the term UNION), on
both the ends of the tubing. While these may be just fine for almost any
other fairly low pressure tubing repairs. You never, never use them on brake
line repairs! Installed right you may luck out and get by. But if the
Ferrell is not just so so, it can separate under pressure. Why take the
chance? Double flared fittings are a little more work, but they will last
forever.
When you get to the FLAPS, ask the nice man behind the counter to speak
to their Copper Fittings Guru. Every FLAPS has one. He's the guy that has
been there a 100 years, doesn't go to lunch, and talks very gruffly. Speak
nicely to him, tell him what your trying do accomplish, listen to what he
has to say, and try not to waste his time. You will make a valuable asset
for the future, maybe not a friend per-say, but an asset all the same!
Another thing, never use Teflon tape on brake fittings. Some may get
into the lines, besides you want the fittings to make the seal, not the tape
making a artificial seal.
Good luck,
Howard
Two wrongs don't make a right,
but three lefts do.
Is there a safe but Quick fix for said
> problem??
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