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Date:         Sun, 5 Mar 2006 08:34:29 -0500
Reply-To:     Dennis Haynes <dhaynes@OPTONLINE.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Dennis Haynes <dhaynes@OPTONLINE.NET>
Subject:      Re: (rear) cv joint
Comments: To: Sudhir Desai <sudhir.desai@GMAIL.COM>
In-Reply-To:  <5c80974c0603041630o193fc480jcea2bc81c3ad8bf8@mail.gmail.com>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

Annual CV joint inspections! Please stop! The real trick to CV joint life is using the proper lubricant. Shortly after the Vanagon got the WB engine CV joint noises where becoming a common problem. Around '86, VW changed the grease to some higher temperature formulae. This eliminated the problem. The grease that is supplied in all of the aftermarket kits, (blue tube) is the older grease. If you get the kits from the dealer, you get the later grease (white tube). Also, for the front outer joints the dealer kits have the correct high strength, longer locking nut.

Dennis 1987 Syncro Westy FUN BUS 235,600 miles original CV joints and engine.

-----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of Sudhir Desai Sent: Saturday, March 04, 2006 7:31 PM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Re: (rear) cv joint

When I was at skip barber, we rebuilt the cv's in all the cars at regular intervals as they were rotated in and out of service. What I remember most was the scrap pile that contained mountains of junk cv's that had very little wrong with them whatsoever (the small grooves you mentioned would have been cause to junk the entire assembly). That's on heavy usage racecars, so there's not exactly a 1-1 correlation, but I would recommend purchasing a new set of 4 and then getting to know them better by rebuilding them once a year. :D

my $.02

Sudhir

On 3/4/06, Wesley Pegden <wes@cs.uchicago.edu> wrote: > Thanks for all the replies and help! > > Here's the damage report. > > I have all joints out and pretty well cleaned up. None of them are > perfect: two of them have shallow grooves in the outer ring, but no > pitting. Is this cause for replacement? (If so, I need to replace all > 4). The joints weren't making noise while on the car, and off the car > in my hand, they felt good and smooth. The grooves average perhaps 1cm > long and 1mm wide, and they're not very deep... some are easier to see > than to feel, and some are easier to feel than to see. But then again, > some tracks on the outer piece have 2 or 3 of these (usually in parallel). > > One of the joints has a ball with a little nick on one of the balls, and > a little bit of pitting in some of the tracks of the outer ring (in > addition to the grooves)---I guess I'm thinking I need to replace this one. > > Finally, the last one has slight pitting on several of the balls, some > wider grooves on the outer piece (one almost a cm wide), and significant > pitting in one of the tracks on the inner piece. I guess I'm thinking I > need to replace this one. > > So, I guess my question is... am I right that I'm best off replacing > these two, and is it unwise to keep the other two, whose problems are > mainly grooves? > > Thanks very much, > Wes > > .John Rodgers wrote: > > Nope! Wear rates are diferent in each CV and that wear changes the > > specs. our fits and clearances in the mixed parts would be all out of > > whack. The mixed-and-matched CV assembly wouldn't hold up very long > > and there would be ve\irtually no reliability. The thing would > > probably come apart and leave you stranded halfway between Somewhere > > and Nowhere, USA. > > > > Regards, > > > > John Rodgers > > 88 GL Driver x2 > > > > > > Wesley Pegden wrote: > > > >> I think everything I've read has been pretty clear about this, but I > >> just want to check... I can't mix and match pieces from two of my > >> (original lobro) joints to get one good joint, right? The stamping on > >> both joints is the same: > >> VW [logo] 211 501 331 B > >> LOBRO 49/83 W/GERMANY % N > >> > >> (The percent sign is a diamond with a W in it). > >> > >> Thanks very much, > >> Wes > >> > >> Wesley Pegden wrote: > >> > >>> Let me rephrase that... does a nick in one of the balls mean that > >>> JOINT needs to be replaced? > >>> > >>> -Wes > >>> > >>> Wesley Pegden wrote: > >>> > >>>> Does a nick in one of the balls mean a new bearing is required?? > >>>> Thanks... > >>>> -Wes > >>>> > >>>> Sam Walters wrote: > >>>> > >>>>> For excellent instructions on CV removal, cleaning and reassembly, > >>>>> and > >>>>> installation, check these two links. The second expands on the > >>>>> first. > >>>>> Pictures and explanation of how to know you reassembled them > >>>>> correctly. > >>>>> > >>>>> http://volksweb.relitech.com/cvjoints.htm Tom Carrington's web > >>>>> site > >>>>> > >>>>> and Ben Huot's additions to this at > >>>>> http://www.benplace.com/cv_joint_maintenance.htm > >>>>> > >>>>> -- > >>>>> Sam Walters > >>>>> Baltimore, MD > >>>>> > >>>>> 89 Syncro GL, Zetec Inside > >>>>> 85 Westy Weekender > >>>>> 85 Mercedes Benz 300D Turbodiesel - to become veggie oil powered > >>>>> > >>>>> All incoming and outgoing email scanned by > >>>>> automatically updated copy of Norton AntiVirus. > >>>>> > >>>> > >>> > >>> > >> > >> > > > > >


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